Halling Holidays: Stockholm & Helsinki

Cruising through 2013.

We have a packed programme this year with quite a focus on cruising. We started the day after our arrival at the Blue Lias for the 2 yearly ACS UK lunch (yes that is the Australian Canal Society). After a good lunch and some presentations (including one from Martin about our Burma trip) we spent a pleasant night aboard their new narrow boat "Braggabout". (More about life aboard when we cruise with them in a couple of weeks.)

The first cruise of the year was on Queen Victoria (QV) around the Baltic. This proved to be an appealing cruise with 11 travelling in our team. We were beaten out of the Solent by Queen Mary 2 who, by pulling out ahead seemed to snub us now that we were on QV. Last year we were on QM2 and graciously awaited the passage of both QV and QE and gave them both a good hoot before setting sail.

We settled into 3 days at sea while we sailed to Stockholm. Taking aboard a pilot was essential when we travelled through the waters adjoining Copenhagen.

The QV mob comprised Phil Edwards, Alan Scandrett, two people who we overpowered and took charge of their table, Helen, Jo, Kate Scandrett, cousin Pamela and husband Robin, Lynne Edwards and Jilly and Steve Edwards (and of course yours truly behind the camera). The Commodore Lounge proved a popular spot for an aperitif.

After some gentle and repeated persuasion we eventually got two tables pushed together for dinner at the back of the Brittania restaurant. Great food and wine made this a great way to end each day.

Stockholm is approached through a myriad of islands which take 4 hours to manoeuvre from ocean to city berth. Dawn was haunting with the sun blinking through swirling mist and shadowy ferries drifting across our path.

At one point there is a narrow passage which has clearly protected Stockholm over many centuries with evidence of heavy fortifications. However, now the main threat is running into the ferry.

The manoeuvring around the islands with QV were on several occasions quite sharp and resulted in the ship heaved (well a slight tilt) to one side when taking the bends.

As we entered the harbour there were some wonderful houses albeit evidence of eccentric owners. What was noticeable were the number of flagpoles. These were in most gardens and particularly tall, generally being several floors above the adjoining house.

A little less eccentric but nonetheless impressive example of how some are handling the financial crisis.

As for the city it is just stunning with its waterfront boarded by the 17C old town.

Not that all is well with all of the older buildings. There was regular evidence of settlement and resultant "curvy" buildings.

We were here a few years ago and the soldiers continue to guard the Royal Palace. The difference this time was that some were woman. Helen disputed this saying the hair was just short and the soldier had a baby face. Despite going back for a second look Helen continued to look at the face and missed the unarguable evidence of a bulging front. I should add that the example below is male and not the guard we were discussing as taking a photograph after several peeks would have been a bit too obvious.

We missed the changing of the guard and despite chasing up the road cold only get the horses rear ends!

It is a beautiful city with some great street views,

and water views.

Thanks to some early commitment and booking we managed to get 4 adjoining cabins. With the balcony dividers down this became a natural party spot for pre-aperitifs.

After an overnight voyage we arrived at Helsinki. Some of us went on a trip to old Porvoo a half hour out of Helsinki. This is Finland’s second oldest city formed in the mid 13^thC. It developed as a centre for trade including furs and tar and has small warehouses on the rivers edge. At the top of the hill is the Cathedral. It is a quaint but simple building with some parts dating back to medieval times. The gate, tower and trees were very picturesque.

After a wonder round we took a small drive to a country mansion called Haikko. This beautiful mansion is surrounded by magnificent grounds so after a coffee and cinnamon bun in one of the restaurants a stroll was required.

The grounds included a 9 hole Frisbee golf course which was a first for me.

and all too exhausting for Robin!

The end of the trip included a drive past the Helsinki waterfront where a number of ice breakers were moored. They continue to be built in the adjoining shipyard however this is now jointly owned by Korean and Russian interests. The ships names are meant to reflect strength – Kontio means Bear while Urho is named after the president of the republic.

A compulsory stop in Helsinki was the magnificent Lutheran Cathedral. This dominates the Helsinki Senate square sitting atop many steps. Close up the details on the outside are beautifully kempt while inside was by contrast somewhat austere.