Saturday, November 2, 2013

Galapagos part 2 - Birdlife

The bird life on the islands is fascinating with many species having developed unusual traits. One of the most common is the Swallow Tailed Gull. It has a small red ring around its eye and is the only nocturnal gull in the world. They are quite graceful ..
And for some reason quite common…
Nests are often under small bushes to make attack by predators difficult.
The range of birds is diverse especially when many have evolved into sub-species based on each island. The Galapagos mocking bird however is seen on a number of the islands.
On Santa Cruz  during our first trip ashore we were treated to these two Greater Flamingos.
Sharing the lagoon were a number of birds including this reflective Solitary Sandpiper. 
And on the shoreline an American Oystercatcher
Now to move to more unusual birds and first up is the Booby of which there are three species. The most common and largest is the Nasca Booby with its distinctive black and white plumage. Here is one incubating two eggs however only one will be reared as the older (and stronger) normally kills the younger one. Selection of the strongest again.
The second Booby is a bot more colourful. The feet of the red footed Booby are a wonderful contrast to its Cambridge blue beak. 
And thirdly there is the blue footed Booby. Their antics when courting a mate are clownish but mesmerising with high foot lifting and as below sky pointing which is done in conjunction with a whooshing sound.
All are graceful flyers and great fishers where they dive from quite a height into the sea. In order to share the food the Nasca Booby tends to fish further off shore than the other two.
The most colourful vote has to go to the Yellow Warbler. This female (without the redhead – a male is in the earlier blog) started off a couple of metres away and just kept hopping closer and closer until it was barely 300 mm away. It was as if she was as keen as me for a good photograph.
There are also a number of Herons on the islands including this Yellow-crowned Night Heron. Although they look placid this one eventually decided to take on a pair of swallow tailed gulls who had a fledgling. Fortunately the attempt was unsuccessful.
This Short-eared Owl was only a foot or so off the ground and a metre off the path which is the closest I have ever been to an owl.
Just as lacking in fear  is the Galapagos Dove. (In fact Darwin observed that he could capture one for the pot by throwing his hat over it.) Even more numerous were Finches. Darwin in 1835 collected many samples (over only a 5 week period to 4 islands) and when examining them back  home realised there were many differences. 13 sub species have now been identified. He formulated the theory of what is now known as adaptive radiation where one species evolves largely due to what food is available (eg small ground finch through to large tree finches).
At the other end of the size scale is the Brown Pelican. We also saw them diving for fish but that was a little difficult to photograph.
Getting larger still with a wingspan of some 2.3 metres is the Waved Albatross on Punta Suarez, Espanola island. Courtship rituals are amazing. Although they have a mate for life it does not stop some 20% of them mating with others  – although they try to look quite innocent - who me??
They also sky point (with a moo sound) and bend their heads from side to side but the first stage of their relationship (and repeated constantly) is banging together of their beaks. The rat-a-tat happens so fast that getting a still photograph was impossible.
Helen managed to video some of their antics on her iphone:
 
 
 
They find taking off a challenge and walk to the cliff edge to benefit from the uplift, but once airborne they are very graceful thanks to their 2.3 metre span.
 Mind you these two reckon they have a bigger span (well jointly) 
However, the most beautiful prize has to go to the Red Billed Tropicbird. It’s extraordinarily long tail feathers were just amazing. 
Now to the famous Frigatebird that I am sure most will have seen pictures of somewhere. There are two varieties (Magnificent and Great) however, even the guides found picking the difference challenging. They have two unusual traits. The first is the male’s courting ritual which involves blowing up his red pouch which the female can see from afar. It takes four hours to inflate and the bigger and brighter it is the stronger the male.
This female has a chick that is looked after for up to 6 months.
They are gifted flyers and easy to spot with their forked tails.
But their main claim to fame is that they are pirates. Although they can fish they prefer others to do this for them and then attack to make the fisher disgorge its catch. I managed to capture such an attack on a Swallow Tailed Gull. The latter just could not out manoeuvre the larger bird.


Quite quickly the Frigatebird gets hold of the tail or beak.

Which is sufficiently scary for the gull to disgorge its catch (see the bottom of the photo) which the Frigatebird then caught before the food hit the water.
Even if a bird is sitting on the water it can be attacked.
The rarest picture goes to this pair of Galapagos Hawks. There are thought to be only 120 to 150 pairs.
How to wrap up Galapagos – simply stunning and a must for anyone who enjoys wildlife and photography.

Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Galapagos part 1 of 2

We flew to the islands and boarded Silverseas Galapgos on her maiden (post refurbishment) voyage to the islands. We travelled the Eastern (older) islands of Santa Cruz, Seymor Norte, Genevosa, St Cristobel and Espanola. On each island we had guides that kept us to paths and as a result none of the animals are afraid of humans (indeed many have few predators). This lack of fear enabled many close up pictures (I took over 1000 in a week). This blog is centred on animals and the next on bird life. Our voyage covered most of the islands to the East of the “Sea Horse”.
The coastline of the islands was spectacular with many being volcanoes  (the older ones are those that have drifted to the East). (This is not a volcano but a quite spectacular blow hole.)
The cliffs included calderas which assist many of the larger birds to take off.
There are limited species most of whom have been forced to adapt to their unique surroundings. Flowers are either white or yellow with no scent. This is because the few pollinators that are on the islands are not attracted to scent or other colours so there is no purpose in plants being any different.
 
Plants and animals are generally imaginatively called the Galapagos, Darwin or Lava something. This is the Galapagos cotton plant.
Much of the inland scenery is unusual and not seen anywhere else. This is Dragon Hill on Santa Cruz.
One very successful plant is the prickly pear cactus, many of which are some 200 years old. This one has suffered at the hands (well hoofs) of introduced donkeys scratching for moisture.
A common theme on all the islands is sea lions. The females and young have a strong bond for a year or so (until the next pup arrives).

This is a very new pup with the after  birth still attached much to the delight of a mocking bird.
Each harem is protected by an Alpha male who in some cases is quite aggressive. This one took to chasing a few of us up the beach. However, all this testosterone is difficult to maintain and most Alphas lose their position to another male within 4 weeks. Keeps the Gene pool strong albeit it results in many bachelor beaches where males spend a few months recovering their energy and healing their wounds.
Many species have a symbiotic relationship with one another. Here a beautiful yellow warbler (male as it has a red head) is looking for small irritating insects.
This species however, is not allowed within 2 metres of an animal so that their natural habits remain untainted.
The islands are host to many iguanas and uniquely there is a marine variety on many of the islands. These feed on algae in the sea and although they are air-breathing can stay under water for some 45 minutes. When on land they have to excrete the salt that has made its way into their system and do this by sneezing. When they are ashore lying in the sun and warming  up it is about their only activity.
The size varies tremendously between islands as each species has adapted to its particular environment. Hence marine iguanas on Genevosa were much smaller than elsewhere as there is not so much food available. By comparison this male land iguana on Seymor Norte does not appear to be too deprived.
And these on Santa Cruz (South Plaza) clearly had no shortage of energy as they continued to mate and run across the island.
They (and the seals) do seem to have an uncanny knack of moulding to the rocks and look quite comfortable.
There were also a variety of lava lizards all of which have evolved into a variety of sub-species which are different on each island. This one belongs to Saint Cristobel.
One of the favourites is the Giant tortoise which also has a sub-species on each island. This is the dome shaped variety on Santa Cruz. Elsewhere a saddleback has evolved which occurred as food was off the ground and required the tortoise to reach up. The front of the shell over the years has developed a saddle appearance to enable the neck to stretch up.
So as to put the size into perspective we used the tortoises blind spot and crept up behind while our guide took this shot.
There are also sea turtles, with this one becoming quite curious as we took a zodiac across the harbour (Wreck Bay) at Saint Cristobel.
One of Helen’s favourites was the very colourful Sally Lightfoot crab.
However, my favourite is this lucky shot of a seal playing..