Frieburg, Versaille (and their surrounds)

We next used Freiburg in the Black Forest as a base. Day one was spent going into Basel where we packed off Sue and Martin at the airport only to gain their daughter Ngaira from the railway station. This did give us a few hours in Basel to take in the sights none so daft as the local’s desire to hop into the Rhine and drift down with the barges. Many had their clothes in a floating bag so wherever they landed they could dry and change. It was hot and the water cold so in some ways it made sense but not when some started to drift their way into the centre of the river and got short shrift with a loud hoot from this barge.

We followed that excitement with a meal on the banks – very scenic at dusk. We have found Europe to date to be very cheap for Australians, however Switzerland is an exception, buy a significant margin.



When looking at a local map I noticed Titisee (on a lake) was a short train ride away. I had stayed here with my folks as a teenager. As tickets were given away by the campsite we set off for a day so I could reminisce.

It is a beautiful spot and after a suitable lunch we walked the 6kms around the lake so we had room for dinner. The girls found a shop selling Birkenstocks (which are German and about half the Australian cost) and while they were engrossed I awaited a local clock dealers attraction to sound the hour.

As the train trip to Titisee was such a success we decided to repeat the experience and travel further afield to Strasbourg. Part way through we learnt our journey required travel by bus and more walking than we anticipated. As temperatures were in the high 30s it was quite an adventure but worth the effort. Strasbourg is beautiful and we spent some time on a Batbeau travelling around the canal that encompasses the old city. The locks and swing bridge added to the picturesqueness.

In stark comparison is the European Parliament building which is also attractive but definitely a building for the other (dark?) side of the canal. 

We had two leisurely days in Freiburg. In the station we discovered a Starbucks with its free WiFi and Ngaira also enjoyed the attentions of an ex-Derby lad who was serving. The town has a great mix of old and modern buildings. It is a university town and has a real buzz about it. In the square was a cello quintet positioned alongside an open drain which continually ran with fresh water. Freiburg is famous for these “falajahs” (as we called them from our Dubai experience).  

They were a real attraction to children (particularly given the high 30 temperatures).  

 

As we window shopped, for some inexplicable reason, we started to feel hungry..

And we finished our visit with a great meal in a restaurant in the church square.



The time in Freiburg was too short and we have put it on the repeat agenda so we can visit other areas in the Black Forest.

Our next stay was at a previously promised repeat namely Versaille. We had visited the gardens with Lianne and Glen in 2009 but had not been into the chateau. We could walk from the campsite but the 3 kms or so were a little harder than expected as the temperature closed in on 40°C. However, the effort was worth it.

Despite the hordes and heat the chateau was awesome. The first “arm” showed its history in artwork undertaken at the time and models showing the chateau's evolution. The artwork going back to 1400 was not protected in anyway – open to the heat and humidity and within easy reach of anyone who was so inclined. I have not seen such unrestricted access at any other museum.

Most of the other “arms” of the chateau had themes. The Royal Chapel ceiling was exquisite. 

The battle hall had some magnificent paintings and what seems typically French was the inclusion of some contemporary art. Personally I found they blocked views of the paintings and detracted from the experience.  I suspect others may suggest this viewpoint was more to do with my age group and staid ways.

Napoleon featured on numerous occasions. This is the battle of Wagram from 1809.

After an exhausting day we retired to a great nights sleep – thanks to the van’s air-conditioning as it remained in the high 20s overnight.

The site was a ten minute walk to the railway and we took a train ride to Paris with a view to visiting the Musee D’Orsay, go inside Notre Dame and go up the Eiffel tower at night. Unfortunately, we had picked a Monday and the Museum was closed. However, Notre Dame was buzzing. Apart from viewing the wonderful stain glass windows we also went into the treasury (for a fee - typical of accountants everywhere).

Some of the displays were quite unusual and some included very detailed gold and gem work.

There were also cameos of each Pope.

 Some of the more recent ones are recognisable

We noticed in Norway that some of the bridges have succumbed to a recent fad of putting padlocks to commemorate various personal events (eg marriage - locked in for life) onto bridge railings. One of the bridges adjoining Notre Dame was covered in locks. I am sure this is not a load that is catered for in bridge designs.

We joined a jump on/off Bateaux and travelled up river to the Eiffel Tower.

After a pleasant meal at a nearby restaurant we made our way in the queues to get the lift up the tower and arrived at level two as the sun was setting.

The lights then went on while we queued for the lift to the top.

At the top there are two levels. The lower one is enclosed and around the perimeter has the direction of towers throughout the world (height and distance). Here is Canberra..

The view to the North over the city and Seine is wonderful and a completely different perspective to a trip up during the day. Here the Louvre and Notre Dame can be seen as well as the Musee D’Orsay – still closed.

Koblenz and Rhineland

A short trip South saw us at Braubach some 10Kms up the Rhine (East bank) from Koblenz. Our site was on the banks and overlooked by Marksberg castle. 

A late lunch in the shade watching the barges was a great soporific start to our 6 day stay.

Marksberg castle was started in about 1000 and is apparently the only one on the Rhine not damaged by war. It has also been in continuous use.

We took a walk through and I purchased a page of a book from 1570. It is a map of Syria and Turkey but we will need some assistance interpreting the olde German.

We joined a tour in German which with the help of a handout Helen translated perfectly (it was in English. I was given the opportunity to try on a helmet and looked more like a modern day Ned Kelly than a knight. How anyone saw, let alone fought an enemy is beyond me. The only thing I could see through the slits were my feet. ( I can confirm I had not suffered any flesh wounds.)

Later masks had a mask that was hinged which you could raise so that the warriors could see each others faces. This is where our modern day salute originated.

The town of Braubach is small and has not changed in years. The only real activity was refurbishing old buildings. The square has two restaurants. Sunday is a busy day with both open but during the week there is an alternative day arrangement. We thus had the opportunity to eat on both sides. The red wine was fairly ordinary but the dry Riesling was excellent (enhanced by being in 1000ml bottles rather than the more usual 750ml). 

Our first day trip was to Koblenz which is a lovely city on the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle. The castle on the East bank is huge and would have been a formidable challenge for attackers with at least 3 inner walls to breach.

We took the Gondola across the Rhine to the castle and were treated to some interesting memorabilia. The cross bow could have driven an arrow across the river. The bow was in two sections and gained its power by being pulled against taught vertical ropes bound together. The film dramas where an arrow is broken off the wounded would not apply here, this arrow would have gone clean through.

Right on the confluence is a statue of Kaiser Wilhelm 1^st on horseback with a woman alongside. As she had no stripes on her clothing we can only assume she is his under-secretary. The statue itself is huge. For comparison my under- secretary is in the foreground.

We also decided on a trip to the beautiful city of Heidelberg. There are two feniculars up the mountain. The first stage was a modern day affair that took us  a little beyond the castle. We then travelled on a second heritage fenicular. It was work of art.

Even the wheel house is manicured.

At the top there was a take-off strip for para-gliders. What a view to soar over.

However, step 1 is to take off and the substantial audience were rewarded for the moment all were hoping for – a crash. No injury fortunately other than to pride.

The old bridge overlooked by the castle is a frequently seen shot, so, as not to disappoint.

The next day we followed all that activity with a ten hour return boat trip up the Moselle to Cocham. Although this should have been relaxing there was so much to photograph it turned out to be quite busy. This is a typical village and church.

By contrast something very much atypical. Heritage is viewed differently in Germany compared to other parts of the world. Nothing stops the road authority here. There were similar railway examples. 

For our 39^th wedding anniversary Helen had booked a medeival feast at Cocham castle. On our drive to Cocham we decided to took a five minute ferry crossing of the Moselle – why, because we could. 

The coachmen saw the car onto the ferry…

While others decided to stay in their carriage during the crossing. (Are we there yet?)

The castle is picturesque from any angle. The town however, was exceedingly busy and we were fortunate that Martin was with us together with his disabled sticker so parking was a breeze. 

When we drove up to the castle we got all the way to the drawbridge. I was turning around to park neatly when a taxi driver came up to me and let off a huge aggressive torrent of words. With my limited German and given I had not mentioned the war, I could only guess at why he was upset. (Apparently some signage banned us from the area). Fortunately, Helen’s booking email recipient then appeared. He was very welcoming and advised we could park where we were (and ignore the taxi driver).

Martin subsequently advised the taxi driver that as we were visitors he should be nice to us and that we had permission to park. I am sceptical that this English explanation would have been understood and even less likely to have changed behaviour.

We were given a tour of the castle before dinner. Just beyond the gate was a colourful and meticulously maintained garden.

The views from the leaded windows within the castle were even more dramatic.

The tour included some interesting pieces including wine tankards (3 litres for the ladies and 5 litres for men). To assist what must have been quite a stagger to the bedroom were door plates which incorporated a guide to direct the key into the lock.

The food was eaten with fingers and after lard and bread, came soup and a main course of a turkey leg. Martin considered the best way to attack his while Susan could barely lift hers. A fun and memorable evening.

The following night was our last supper with Sue and Martin which we had back in camp. Note the size of the duck thighs – a bit more manageable.