Vesuvius to Corfe castle

With the wedding over we opted for a slight detour on the way back to the ‘van. Vesuvius is just to the North of the Amalfi coast and after all that fare a bit of a workout seemed appropriate. The climb from the car park to the top was about 3.5 kms – and pretty steep as well! (The top is 1281m and the car park about 840m). However, once there the views both into the crater and looking out were very rewarding.

The build up of ash layers were surprisingly thin and numerous and the sheer faces quite intimidating. Fall in here and it would be quite a job to get out.

Around the perimeter are quite a few monitoring stations as the last eruption was only in 1944 so not a long time ago. Certainly if she erupted now the potential damage with sprawling Naples below would be massive.

Part of the great view with Sorrento in the background (just to the left of Ngaira’s head) and the island of Capri the other side.

On the way down the sun gave an added dimension to the view.

and with that we packed up the van in preparation for trip home. As cruising was not a feature this year we opted for a couple of 24 hour ferry rides! We drove to Civitavechi (Rome’s port) and caught the ferry to Barcelona. The loading and unloading at Rome and the halfway stop in the morning at Torres (Sardinia) was somewhat chaotic and inefficient – definitely need a traffic management plan. Result we arrived in Barcelona 1½ hours late and at 22:00 too late for our site – so a service station ovwenight stop!

We had a midway overnight stop in Spain at Haro. (Spaniards are great drivers – they understand the meaning of lane lines and the purpose of indicators whereas the Italians seem to think lines are for straddling and cars it appears are not fitted with indicators – cost cutting austerity measure?)

Haro was picked as the site had a good caravan report. What we did not know was how attractive the town is

and even more importantly the heartland of Rioja.

The sculpture and overlooking wall painting underpins the heritage.

The small high street is lined with Tapas bars. This one specialised in mushrooms on fresh bread – scrumptious. We spent a very pleasant couple of hours slowly progressing through several vintages of Rioja and Tapas dishes. Fortunately we were early and got a seat – by the time we left patrons were falling into the street. An absolutely brilliant and unexpected find. A re-visit a must.

Our next cruise was from Santander to Portsmouth. Much more pleasant ship and facilities; just as well as there was a force 8 gale across the Bay of Biscay. Helen enjoyed an evening meal and then slept through the whole night while I skipped dinner and wore a path in the carpet between my bunk and the bathroom….We had an offer to spend a couple of nights with Ngaira in Poole as she also had a friend who had space to park the ‘van. This proved really helpful as it allowed cleaning and washing prior to storing the van.

It also gave us time for a tour of highlights in the area. We started with a ferry ride to Sandbanks and visited the defences. This bunker (the view is through the slot) is where Churchill, Eisenhower, Montgomery, Mountbatten and King George VI met up in April 1944 and watched the biggest single real ammunition exercise of the war with carpet bombings and assault landings. Visible up the bank (middle left) are the Devils Teeth tank trap designed to delay any invading forces. 

We proceeded to the end of the peninsula where Harry’s rocks bathed in sun were a great contrast to the blue-grey sea. (Some say named after the pirate Harry Paye,)

Looking west is Poole’s version of the seven sisters. The cliffs are slowly being undermined so more sisters can be expected over the next hundred years or so.

The walk up to the Western end of the peninsula was an uncrowded affair.

We then descended to a local pub, had lunch, a quick trip through Swanage and onto Durlston Castle  - a true folly,

but with some great views

and some interesting displays. This globe was more a sculpture than a true replication of the world. These bollards are from London and surrounds and were used as ballast on return trips having delivered Purbeck stone to the capital.

What was a low key but really well put together display was a large stone where various fossils were lit and picked out with a coordinated video. From crocodile teeth to small shellfish it was an illuminating 8 minute display.

As the sun was setting we travelled through Corfe and saw the castle which because of the late hour was closed. Another return trip required.

So ended an amazing 3 month trip – we have seen so much and been lucky to have had many, many wonderful shared experiences. Highlights – so difficult but if pressed, The Vatican, Harry Potter and the Amalfi coast were all just mind-blowing locations and significantly exceeded already high expectations. Catching up with and meeting new people at the weddings was also fabulous as was travelling with friends and family.

The Amalfi coast and second wedding of the year

We have long wanted to go to the Amalfi coast and when Xavier (Sue and Martin’s son) and wife-to-be Emma invited us to their destination wedding no decision was needed – only the how had to be sorted. The intermingling of Amalfi views and wedding photos were hard to split so this is for blogger followers and those interested in just the wedding.

The how started with finding a suitable site for our large ‘van. This was a challenge in the mountainous area of Amalfi but we did find a great site some 30 minutes South of Salerno at Paestum village. What we did not know until the day after our arrival is that we were a few kms from a 600 BC site. As if this structure was not enough there were two more a kilometre or so down the road! Unfortunately we did not have time for a good exploration of this unexpected find.

We opted to drive to Sorrento where we had a B&B booked for a couple of days and so we were closer to the wedding activities. The coastal drive took several hours and had some exciting moments with a small wall being the only protection from the road to the sea several hundreds of metres below. The numerous oncoming buses along a road which was in many instances only one bus wide added to the excitement. All this while trying to take in spectacular views.

We arrived in Sorento, dumped the bags in the B&B and the car in a garage next to the station and went exploring. Just up the road this sculpture seemed to have a similar theme to the Viterbo  giant.

In the evening we met up with many of the wedding guests. All generations were suitably represented.

Sorrento is perched on top of a very high cliff. Beach space is minimal so jetties protected by breakwaters have been constructed purely for sunbathers. Quite an expensive way of encouraging skin cancer.

The walk down to the harbour was via a number of large flights of steps and then this zig-zag road. Going down was OK but….

Sue insisted on us calling into a Limoncillo shop which was near her hotel. Needless to say purchases were made – although the choice was difficult given the enormous variety. Limoncillo biscuits were a new and very pleasant experience.

 It looks like this driver also knows a thing or two about Limoncillo.

The wedding was up in the mountains at Ravello but first we had to get to Amalfi. How else to travel but by our own boat from Sorrento? 

Especially as this was a black tie do. Fortunately the temperature was in the high 20s rather than 30s so it was a very pleasant trip.

The views were numerous. Through the arch is a little fishing village. In the past fish had to be carried in baskets up the mountain to the “road” at the top. A very hard lifestyle.

Not sure I would have built a hotel here. If the cliff below doesn’t give way below then there is always the possibility of a cave in from above. 

By comparison this cave was very inviting. What was needed here was a James Bond wet suit over the black tie attire….

En route we picked up the groom and his entourage at Positano. We were a bit late in arriving so the groom was understandably a little stressed – needs to chillax as some would say…..

We arrived at Amalfi pretty much on time according to the boat owners – who were really great hosts- but Italian on time is not quite the same as elsewhere. 

Not that any of this bothered Martin who looked particularly dapper with his cap and seemed to relish the opportunity to help others off the boat.

He also helped to chillax the groom…..

The venue was in a hotel at the top of the village of Ravello which we arrived at following an adventurous coach ride from Amalfi. What a location. Freshly cut grass terraces with a staggering view over the coast as a backdrop to the proceedings.

With furniture shaded by well kempt olive trees

Who are we sitting next to? 

The bride and her Dad descended from the hotel via some steps. I think the bride was much more relaxed than Dad Des.

Photos were not allowed during the ceremony (so that the professional photographer was not getting pictures of everyone with their i phones). I did sneak this one of the signing. Not sure whether this was overlooked by the Scilian or Calibrean mafia but the best man Ross and groomsman Andy certainly added some Italian presence.

I was allowed to take photos with the professionals at the infinity pool and spotted that there was a full moon. This probably is the number one photo of the whole trip……

I also took advantage of the lighting by the professional team….

Even the poolside looks enchanting.

Given all the activity this was a welcome calm reflective moment.

And as the sun set the moon really took on its role of adding to the spectacle.

The evening closed with young William leading us down the path through the now quiet village back to the bus. A rather appropriate shot to round out what has been a fabulous Italian trip.

Another Country

When in Rome there is the opportunity to visit another country, namely the Vatican. Not too many border controls here except for an entry payment. We went with  a tour run by "Enjoy Roma" and had an excellent guide. There was so much information I could have done with a recorder.

The new ticket hall which Pope John Paul commissioned leads up and out to a large courtyard where the dome of St Peter’s Basilica is immediately apparent glimpsing through the trees.

The gardens are also beautiful but this glimpse was all there was time for.

Being a separate country the Vatican has its own radio which means an unsightly tower.

We were then given a handout of the ceiling paintings within the Sistine Chapel (named after Pope Sixtus IV, who built the chapel in the 1470s). Michelangelo undertook the painting which was a remarkable feat for several reasons: he was not a painter but viewed himself as a sculptor and declined the commission on several occasions (a pretty dangerous thing to do in those days), he had to persuade the Pope to change his requirements so that the pictures represented a story and then the physical challenge of painting from a scaffold over a four year period and not being able to see what it would look like from the ground. Michelangelo was not only a very talented sculptor and artist but was also the architect on several buildings.

The reason for the handout was that you are not allowed to talk in the chapel (only the Pope is allowed to speak here). Additionally, no photography is allowed. 

We first entered a long gallery which was remarkable on two counts – it went on forever (it is some 200 metres long) and slopes down so you really get some appreciation of the length. There are three galleries, paintings, tapestries and maps (paintings). We actually travelled the wrong way as the Pope walks up the gallery and all the ceiling paintings were upside down from our perspective. Underneath us was a second gallery for going the other way!! (Which is not open to the public.)

The level of detail, elegance and integration of the artwork was mesmerising. 

Some of the ceiling was just sumptuous.

This part of the ceiling with its relief looks to be in plaster but is in fact a flat painting.

We went through a gallery (particularly pleasant as it was air conditioned) where there were huge tapestries made in Belgium. This was followed by a gallery of maps. They are remarkably detailed for their time (1580). Although they do take a little time to comprehend as there is no North point - they all point to Rome!

We then went into the supposedly quiet Sistine chapel. This is where the Pope is elected and a chimney is built on these occassions to enable the votes to be burnt. It was fascinating and the handouts were very helpful in understanding the various elements of the paintings. What was disappointing was the frankly disgraceful behaviour of many of the visitors. Some took photographs while many more just could not stop talking. Although there were guards about who tried to keep order it was a useless exercise.

Outside we made our way to the entry to the Basilica. The first door Porta Santa is only opened on special Holy days – every 25 years. There are exceptions as Pope John Paul declared a special year to celebrate Mercy. However, it is not as simple as unlocking it – behind is a wall that first has to be demolished.

Inside is huge and staggeringly beautiful. It took 80 architects to design and build the Basicillica which is not an approach that would normally drive a successful result but they seem to have got it right – eventually. It took 200 years to build so I suspect there was some rejected work along the way. Some of the detail such as perspctive was awesome. These two statues appear to be of a similar size to the viewer (which is the intention as no Saint should be superior to another). However, the top one is almost twice as big as the bottom one so from the ground they appear to be the same size.

Michelangelo’s favourite form was sculpting and he takes pride of place to the right and just inside the entry. This was one piece of marble. The flowing robes almost look soft.

This being Rome no other Basilica in the world is allowed to be larger. In the centre of the floor is a fenced off strip with the lengths of other Basilicas throughout the world. Sydney at 114.61 metres is about half the length of the Vatican at 220m.

The way the light enters through the dome appears heavenly.

The ceiling is reflected in the floor design with each dome outlined in a circle of marble.

As for the paintings – well there aren’t any. This is great news as any photography including flash is allowed. These are mosaics. We had to be told this as there was no way the untrained eye from a distance could pick this up. Look at the colours – which of course don’t fade – just need a bit of a wash periodically.

Zoom in on this photo and see how the water moves around Jesus’s feet and how they are reflected in the water. Extraordinary skills to do this.

The three hour tour was over very quickly and although a walk up to the dome was allowed the team decided that their legs were not up for it. We will need to come back for that experience.

We exited into the main square. It is enormous and no photo can really give an appreciation of the size. Suffice to say the Basilica has space for 60,000 but this number is often exceeded for special events so ceremonies are held in the square where some 400,000 can be accommodated.

As we left the secure area and entered the square there were two Swiss guards on duty. They have been guarding the Vatican since 1506. (Not these two who looked very young.)

Out in the early evening sun it was time to look for a place to sit and have some refreshment.

A last glance back.

There were many enticing restaurants – this was a great bit of decoration  - anyone want to play pick up sticks?

A view of Ponte Vittoria Emanuelle II

from Ponte S Angelo looking towards Castel Saint Angelo.

And finally arriving at our planned destination of Piazza Navona. 

We had a great meal with some very humorous service by two Bangladeshi waiters as we assisted in recruiting other Aussies and Kiwis to a nearby table. Excellent food. One of our waiters assisted with this photo - it is clear that for the moment to be captured it had to include the restaurant's name!

The square however, was a disappointment. Two years ago there was a huge variety of painters, necklace makers etc who made it a really vibrant place. Now it has reduced to cartoon caricature painters and human statues and just lacks diversity with the resultant decline in interest.

However, we did nip round the corner to the Frigidarium for a gelato – nothing had changed there; you still queue in the street and the gelato was still brilliant.