Trans Canada

After such an energetic cruise a few restful days was just the ticket. Perth (Ontario) really put on some great weather and we took advantage with a trip to Narrow Lock and the Opinicon Lodge.

This is where we berthed in 2009 (see August 2009 blog). The Lodge has been purchased by a team with some money and is going through a major upgrade. Maybe worth risking the sandwiches next time. They were mouldy in 2009!

The sun continued when Steve and Jilly also called over for a couple of days. Wine in the sunroom was the way to go …..

Unless you were on the jetty. I earned my keep and cooked a couple of legs of lamb. This meat was a first for Matthew (Nichol’s friend) but the way it was wolfed down I suspect will not be the last time.

We had a day trip to Ottawa to see some of the sites (well mainly first grandchild Libby). What a little entertainer who clearly enjoyed being the focal point.

We (well Helen) caught up on the washing and after a relaxing couple of days we restarted our journey West and cadged a lift to Kingston so we could catch the train to Toronto. The city has some interesting buildings including the (ice) hockey hall of fame

And this one in need of fresh blue tack.

As we made our way to the water front we encountered this skate boarder performing for the camera. We must have jinxed this jump as it was anything but landed!!

A more sedate sport is cycling and Helen was quite happy to give this tandem a try especially as there was little chance of falling off here. The speed of the bike was also unlikely to impact the hair style.

Toronto is a bit sport mad and was hosting a major baseball game (the blue jays) and an international ice hockey game (Canada v Europe) and this was a Tuesday night! Crowds were everywhere but well organised and friendly. The blimp was out for the baseball but was dwarfed by the Toronto tower (thanks to a little perspective).

Near the baseball stadium was the original round house with train turntable and stables. It looks like an interesting museum as well as bar but unfortunately it was too late in the evening for us to gain entry.

So we settled on a spot of dinner at Fairmont Royal York Hotel which was near the station. A very pleasant way to while away the evening awaiting our cross Canada train's departure.

The main station was being refurbished but nonetheless makes quite a statement including the fact that the train was going to be some 2 hours late. We boarded a bit after midnight for our 4 nights aboard and slept pretty well probably due to the fatigue level.

We saw quite a few Beaver lodges as we travelled through Ontario and its thousands of lakes.

The train was pulled by two locomotives (one for pulling and the second for electricity generation for the carriages).

When I was at school in Canada as a 6 year old I learnt that the country comprised (East to West):

A thousand miles of forest
Two thousand miles of plain
A thousand miles of mountains
And then the sea again.

The first day we were in the forest and with the approach of Fall (suitably named) the leaves produced an increasingly colourful display.

The train stopped in Winnipeg for 3 hours and the downtown station is right next to the Museum for Human Rights. The sculpture of Ghandi in the foreground was particularly appropriate.

The Esplanade Riel and Museum in the background on a sunny and calm day seemed to call out to have their photograph taken. The bridge crosses the Red river and is adjacent to “The Forks” where the Assiniboine river joins.

East is an area which is centred around the heritage awarded St Boniface cathedral façade.

And its adjoining university. A pleasant and peaceful area in which to study.

The train tour guide promised that the prairies (the two thousand miles of plain) was famous for its sunrises and sunsets. We were not up early enough to witness the former but the latter was true enough.

We saw quite a bit of wildlife including a Moose. However, getting a meaningful picture from a train moving at up to 90mph is a bit of a challenge. This elk was one success amongst a herd of failures.

 On the third day we approached the Rockies

and were able to get off at Jasper for an hour or so. In addition to the four dome cars in our 27 car train two new panorama carriages were added (the one behind the human). Luxury viewing.

Although it was wet when we pulled out of Edmonton by the time we reached the mountains we were once more treated to perfect weather. There was an ever unfolding vista of mountains, forests and lakes.

And then we came across the almost 4000 metre high Mount Robson; clothed in its glaciers.

The afternoon and well into sunset there was just mountain after mountain.

In some cases it was hard to differentiate between mountains and cloud.

Our 18:30 dinner call was just as the sun set so we did not miss too much, however we spent all night sleeping through more mountains – just wonder what we missed.

The train timetable is not one for relying on as we swayed from being 3 hours late to 1 hour early over the four days. The track is in many places a single line and shared with goods train. Waiting for these 200+ carriage monsters to pass can take quite a time, hence any timetable has to be treated as an optimistic guide. Travelling West we did progressively collect an additional four hours sleep which was welcome and did make getting up to see the sunrise on our last day a bit easier.

As we travelled down the Fraser the log rafts got progressively bigger (seemingly adopting a percentage of the rivers width).  

Given the approximation of the timetable VIA rail advise not to book forward travel on the day of arrival so I suspect we were lucky to only be 1.5 hours late when we arrived. Stations have long been seen as Architectural statements and Vancouver was no exception.

We had booked one night at an upmarket hotel at Canadian Place on the waterfront (next to the cruise terminal). In the evening we strolled into the beguiling Gastown area. This 2 Ton steam clock was the first in the world. Steam raises a ball and gravity then enables it to drive the clock. Steam also drives the hooting (and somehow quite haunting) chimes. At times you could see the steam exhausting from the top.

We decided on some Italian at the Spaghetti Factory. The décor with its old tramcar and glass lampshades was too inviting to turn down even if we had to wait half an hour for a table. The bar made that a pleasant experience with its rugby enthusiastic barman and “Melbournians” on the adjoin bar stools.

Waterfront road is colourful and overlooked by the contrasting lights of Vancouver lookout tower.

Our hotel (Pan Pacific) adjoined the colourful cruise terminal.

The view from our room was not too shabby either.

Unfortunately, this brought our holiday to an end and we walked to the nearby Waterfront train station and caught the unmanned train to the airport. The Canada line was a staggeringly cheap way to travel. $1.75 per (senior) head for a half hour ride to the airport. Although this was discounted because it was a Sunday the extent of the subsidy can only leave me thanking the BC (British Columbian) taxpayer!

A memorable trip which left us both considering: A further walk (C2C part 2?), more time in Iceland to see the volcanoes and more travel with Pam and Robin on the Rideau as we have been guaranteed the boat will work.

Cruising Canada

Even compared to the other sea days the voyage from Greenland to Newfoundland was unusually rough. The weather sprung the glass doors to the library in the unusually quiet observation lounge.

So it was good to arrive at L'Anse aux Meadows (sea of jellyfish – not that we saw any) albeit a  pretty cold (5°C) part of the world enhanced by a stiff breeze and high humidity. At least there was no rain. This was the first settlement in Canada by the Vikings and after 20 years even those hardy souls left.

The housing was similar to Iceland but due presumably to a lack of stone were made only of sods. A very draft free construction.

This is also where the 2010 project Viking ship called Draken is housed. She is 35 metres long  undertook the voyage from Norway via Iceland and Greenland. The Vikings always travelled in sight of land or pack ice. The journey from Norway via Shetland and Faroes to Iceland took about 7 or 8 days. Similarly Iceland to Greenland followed by Greenland to Newfoundland. Although a large vessel the idea of travelling in them through the seas we encountered had no appeal.

The population here was 15 and all were jovial – you would have to have a positive outlook.

In the village was a blacksmith, church and kitchen. Here I sampled bread cooked over the fire and some salted Capelin (large sardine type fish). Once we left I suspect they went back to their more modern homes!

Overnight we cruised down the West coast of Newfoundland and arrived at Gros Morne. Here a day trip took us to he National Park which warrants a second visit to undertake some of the walks. The lighthouse was picturesque and under the Canadian flag we worked out that the other five spelt FROZE. Someone with a sense of humour.

Our guide was a jolly retired Geologist and on the return journey had a number of rocks for us to handle. This was mantle rock which was surprisingly heavy.

Some of the buildings were very attractive particularly those with a bell cast roof.

In an endeavour to reduce shipping accidents the Gulf of St Lawrence and river are bounded by  numerous lighthouses.

This is the tallest of them and is clad in marble to protect it from the elements.

Nearby Northern gannets sweep the coastline and dive with their wings back missile like into the water at some 60 mph. This speed diving has resulted in some unique evolution – their nostrils are inside their beak (so they don’t have to hold their nose) and they have air sacs (like bubble wrap) in their forehead and neck to help absorb the impact. Graceful gliders and deadly divers!

We also saw seals, a porcupine and a couple of beaver lodges on this outing (but this is headed towards a long blog in any case – so photos on request!)

We then headed across the Gulf and arrived on the mainland in Gaspe. This was where some of the Atlantic fleet assembled. There are two natural sandbars which together with a wire rope and chain between them gave protection from German submarines. Each bank has two gun emplacements however none were apparently fired in anger. 

As we set off that evening up the river to Quebec we had some wonderful skies.

Even a brief shower added to the spectacle.

And the following evening when we approached Quebec, it would be hard to deny that even the commercial berths were attractive.

Not that those who believe to the Hotel Chateau Le Frontenac being the most photographed hotel in the world would agree. (I am not sure that the Dubai Burj Arab or Singapore Marina Bay Sands would concur with this Canadian claim in any case.)

It is nonetheless a spectacular view and setting.

Quebec has been substantially upgraded and the old part is now a wonderful place to roam. The warm night lights bring out the moth characteristics in humans.

The beer also helps.

We had 24 hours in Quebec and the following morning had our first day with breakfast on the balcony in wonderfully warm and still weather.

Steve and Jilly decided on a Canada tour and stayed in an adjoining hotel. We decided on a bit of lunch at the Hotel Chateau Le Frontenac. The bar was enticing as was the presentation of many fine wines. A polar bear guard seemed appropriate.

Steve and Jilly were always ready to pose for a photo but what I was actually surreptitiously  photographing was the ex-prime minister Brian Mulroney ('84 - '93)

Outside we were surprised to see a statue by Salvado Dahli (see Spain blog Sept 2013).

La Fresque des Québécois gave a pictorial history of key city personnel and this complemented the nearby excavations of the old city.

One of the attractions of cruising on a small ship was that those who went ashore made barely any impact on the normal crowds so movement was not stifled (as can occur with larger ships in more popular ports).

Our final port of call was Montreal and after a good breakfast aboard we took a cab to the railway station to store our bags and then set off to see some city highlights. First was the Basilique-Cathédral Marie-Reine-Du-Monde (Mary Queen of the World).

The internal dome was brightly lit and unusually colourful. It reminded us if Ely cathedral and the unresolved challenges of how the dome was built.

We then took the metro to Atwater markets. I have never seen such a diverse range of pumpkins.

The berries were also a very colourful display.

After a bit of lunch we went to see Pam’s younger son Raymond who has a new and quite funky house towards the St Lawrence. We then caught the train (business class as economy would have been too much of a shock to the system after the cruise) and headed to Pam and Robin’s house in Perth. A day or two relaxing and partying (Steve and Jilly also joined in the fun) was just what was needed.

It was also good to catch up with George, Julia and Nichol.

We continued to attract some wonderful weather and with the clear light and start of the autumn (fall) colours had some gorgeous contrasts. This, the view from the house of the lake.

And this looking up from the garden hammock!