Sunday, September 16, 2012

NY (we love it), Washington (we now love it) Steve & Jilly (we always love staying with them)

After Helen’s first visit to NY almost two years ago subsequent itineraries now have to include a stopover. On arrival we were invited by Kate Collins (Jan & Iain’s neice) to a wonderful meal at Arva (141East 48th Street). Excellent food, two bottles of a favourite wine - Santorini  Boutari and great company made for a memorable night. I suspect Kate was pleased she took a train in rather than drove.
Our first outing was to Central Park which was much busier in 30°C than the minus temperatures of our last visit. 
All modes of travel occur around the park. For us pedestrians the crossings were not much of a haven  as skateboarders, cyclist and the like do not appear to have any regard for road rules.
We travelled using a 48 hour “Hop on Hop off” double decker open bus tour. One guide was particularly good not just discussing history and architecture but also suggesting photo opportunities. On reflection he was right. 

As for the architecture it is in abundance – some samples….
The readily recognisable Empire State Building

The less well known but aptly named Flat Iron
The Beekman Tower with its rippling effect is a new edition
We took a recommended walk (with thousands of others) across the Brooklyn Bridge. Although highly rated by New Yorkers we found it busy, noisy with traffic and with limited views (you walk in the middle). Climbing on the parapet was one way of improving the outlook. The building in the background under construction is WTC 1 which will be the tallest building in NY. 
We visited the WTC memorial which was an evocative experience. It comprises two huge square double waterfalls. The names of those who died are inscribed in the parapet and visitors are encouraged to touch. It is a great design that allows reflection of the events of 9/11 and includes those who died in the Pentagon and Shanksville as well as those who died in the February 1993 WTC car park bomb. Behind the Southern pool is the soon to be opened museum as well as WTC1.
 It was also good to see that flight paths remain unchanged. 
From the hotel we were able to walk to The Mall via the White House 
  The Washington monument 
  and Capitol Hill. 
On either side of the Mall are the Smithsonian museums. These were initially set up through a large donation. We were amazed that the initial doner James Smithson never visited the USA in his lifetime but died in Genoa, Italy in 1828. His remains were later brought across for reinterment in The Smithsonian Castle in 1904.
We only had time for part of one museum and of course, with Helen, that had to be the Natural History museum. Two highlights: the first was feeding a Tarantula (with a cricket). These spiders do not kill humans and only bite prey of a size that they can eat. They do shoot the hairs off their back which can irritate but that’s all. However, as they only eat every few weeks (one at the museum did not eat for 52 weeks) they are not the most exciting of pets.
Far more exciting was the second highlight the Hope diamond. At 45.52 carats it is one of the largest and best known diamonds in the world. The surrounding 16 diamonds and platinum chain with 46 more diamonds aren’t too shoddy either. 
We ended the day at Union Station which is a destination in its own right. Spectacular. After spending all day walking in very hot and humid conditions we succumbed to a cooling Haagen Dazs ice cream – never mind the fat points. 
The next day was less energetic as we headed for a leisurely boat trip and lunch on the Potomac river. Good fun. During the trip we passed the Water Gate hotel, John F Kennedy  performing arts centre and passed very slowly under a railway bridge with inches (it is USA) to spare. The Potomac river is tidal albeit 100 miles upstream and sometimes the Odyssey does not fit.
To round off our Washington visit we took the opportunity to visit Cirque De Soleil – Totem. It was brilliant.
We then drove South for a day to North Carolina and Steve and Jilly’s place vowing to come back to Washington. The main plot with Steve and Jilly was to have a leisurely time centred on a bit of golf and a bit of eating. The latter included a restaurant at the beach (great clam chowder soup).
 and cheese and wine on the club’s beach house
We at least had a walk along the beach which is vast with very few people. I suspect with the regular breeze a good deal of fun could be had with land yachts (maybe a business opportunity Steve).
Mind you care would need to be had near the turtle nests which are labelled and protected.
One of our more energetic days was spent walking round Brookgreen Gardens and in particular the Huntington Sculpture gardens. It was hard to pick amongst many outstanding displays but I did like Heron, Grouse and Loon
as well as the descending Jaguar
Throughout, the dappled light views engendered a feeling of calm and tranquillity.
We also took the opportunity for a boat trip along the nearby Waccamaw river. The guide did not see this Alligator but at about a metre it was pretty small (well compared to an Aussie croc).
This yellow bellied slider tortoise was enjoying sunbaking
 while the buzzards were as usual waiting for something to die.
Steve and Jilly had organised an Australian dinner with some friends who really entered into the spirit. The range of wine and food was diverse ranging from meat pies (much too higher quality), pavlova and Tim Tams.
The numerous wines were great but we were taken aback at the generosity of one visitor (Whit) who brought along a 1982 vintage bottle of Grange Hermitage. A wonderful note on which to end this years Northern hemisphere’s venture which took shared experiences to a new level. 

Monday, September 3, 2012

Dorset and Glyndbourne

We left the continent via the Le Havre – Portsmouth ferry so we could spend some time with Sue and Martin. They were keen to show us their backyard. The view of Le Havre was diverse but unfortunately dominated by some pretty unattractive post war flats. 
As we were a late arrival the first night was spent in the caravan and we then moved into Sue and Martin’s one bedroom flat (they relocated to Martin’s Mum Beryl’s house). Martin gave me a tour of Poole harbour – it is clear that the GFC has not affected everyone with the boat manufacturer Sunseeker very busy with many expensive boats under construction – all the sheds (and there were a lot of them) were full. 
Poole’s harbour is the second biggest in area in the world (Sydney being the biggest). The calmer upstream waters require passing through an old lift bridge. As this disrupts traffic on a regular basis a new bridge was built further upstream so that traffic could always move across (as long as the drivers knew the timetable).
The new bridge is a wonderful design with a very slim and unobtrusive low profile when down
But when up is really impressive and aptly named the twin sails bridge.
A little later in the day we travelled to Wareham where a small church sits atop a Saxon wall.
The paintings in here date back to the 12th Century and are of Martin of Tours (born 316 A.D.)
However, the church is also famous for an unwanted, by Westminster Abbey, effigy of Lawrence of Arabia. He lived in the area and the church snapped up the opportunity. Nearby (but not in the church cemetery) is his grave (16 August 1888 – 19 May 1935). (Someone has recently added some stones saying Happy Birthday.)
And further up the road is St Nicholas church where he was buried. This is a beautiful little church which is unusual in that its windows are etched glass (the original windows being blown out by a second world war bomb). (If you blow up the picture the windows can be seen.)
We had lunch in a cafeteria housed in the old school. Pride of place is the carriage that carried Lawrence’s coffin.
Our education by Martin continued with the introduction to a Ha Ha. This is a ditch with a wall and rather like a small moat prevents access from one side. Here there is a gate through the Ha Ha to enable the Lord of the Manor access to the church. It is important that the upper class do not have to share the same path as the unwashed.
In our weaving through the countryside we crossed an old (fixed) bridge. In the middle is a plaque that reads “Any person wilfully injuring any part of this County Bridge will be guilty of Felony and upon conviction liable to be Transported for life”. This is why Australia suffers from graffiti on many bridges.
Helen had decided we should pretend to be upper class and had booked us into Glyndebourne. This is a country mansion near Brighton where the owners were Opera tragics. They built a stage for opera and now host several shows during the summer season. It is a black tie affair and the 1.5 hour interval enables guests to enjoy a wonderful dinner. We saw the Fairy Queen (based on Shakespeare’s Midsummer Nights dream and using Purcell’s music and words). It was a wonderful mix of theatre, dance and opera. We were not allowed to photograph the show but here we are at dinner.
We were the last to finish dinner – but part two was not started until we returned.
The following day we took the opportunity to return and visit the grounds. There are some great sculptures. This one is on the other side of a Ha Ha (note the line of the two grass areas) which keeps the sheep out and gives unrestricted views (which would not be the case with a fence).
The sculptures were appreciated by the locals. This one bleated “man this is really living”.
  This is the Ha Ha from a different angle.
We then moved from this tranquil setting to the mayhem of Brighton during a Bank Holiday. Here Kensington Gardens and Sydney Street were teeming with people.
We escaped some of the crowds with a trip to the pavilion built by the extravagant George IV. The Asian influence is apparent throughout. Queen Victoria subsequently decided the pavilion was not suitable for raising children and sold the palace to the people of Brighton who continue to own it today.
The other great attraction is Brighton pier (there were two but one burnt down). It looks peaceful from this view but close up it was a packed with people, re-born Elvis Presley, rides, chips, beer and unrelenting noise. Worth a visit but not something that needs repeating!
This ended our European touring for 2012 and after reluctantly packing up the ‘van and car we headed off for New York.