Cruising Canada

Even compared to the other sea days the voyage from Greenland to Newfoundland was unusually rough. The weather sprung the glass doors to the library in the unusually quiet observation lounge.

So it was good to arrive at L'Anse aux Meadows (sea of jellyfish – not that we saw any) albeit a  pretty cold (5°C) part of the world enhanced by a stiff breeze and high humidity. At least there was no rain. This was the first settlement in Canada by the Vikings and after 20 years even those hardy souls left.

The housing was similar to Iceland but due presumably to a lack of stone were made only of sods. A very draft free construction.

This is also where the 2010 project Viking ship called Draken is housed. She is 35 metres long  undertook the voyage from Norway via Iceland and Greenland. The Vikings always travelled in sight of land or pack ice. The journey from Norway via Shetland and Faroes to Iceland took about 7 or 8 days. Similarly Iceland to Greenland followed by Greenland to Newfoundland. Although a large vessel the idea of travelling in them through the seas we encountered had no appeal.

The population here was 15 and all were jovial – you would have to have a positive outlook.

In the village was a blacksmith, church and kitchen. Here I sampled bread cooked over the fire and some salted Capelin (large sardine type fish). Once we left I suspect they went back to their more modern homes!

Overnight we cruised down the West coast of Newfoundland and arrived at Gros Morne. Here a day trip took us to he National Park which warrants a second visit to undertake some of the walks. The lighthouse was picturesque and under the Canadian flag we worked out that the other five spelt FROZE. Someone with a sense of humour.

Our guide was a jolly retired Geologist and on the return journey had a number of rocks for us to handle. This was mantle rock which was surprisingly heavy.

Some of the buildings were very attractive particularly those with a bell cast roof.

In an endeavour to reduce shipping accidents the Gulf of St Lawrence and river are bounded by  numerous lighthouses.

This is the tallest of them and is clad in marble to protect it from the elements.

Nearby Northern gannets sweep the coastline and dive with their wings back missile like into the water at some 60 mph. This speed diving has resulted in some unique evolution – their nostrils are inside their beak (so they don’t have to hold their nose) and they have air sacs (like bubble wrap) in their forehead and neck to help absorb the impact. Graceful gliders and deadly divers!

We also saw seals, a porcupine and a couple of beaver lodges on this outing (but this is headed towards a long blog in any case – so photos on request!)

We then headed across the Gulf and arrived on the mainland in Gaspe. This was where some of the Atlantic fleet assembled. There are two natural sandbars which together with a wire rope and chain between them gave protection from German submarines. Each bank has two gun emplacements however none were apparently fired in anger. 

As we set off that evening up the river to Quebec we had some wonderful skies.

Even a brief shower added to the spectacle.

And the following evening when we approached Quebec, it would be hard to deny that even the commercial berths were attractive.

Not that those who believe to the Hotel Chateau Le Frontenac being the most photographed hotel in the world would agree. (I am not sure that the Dubai Burj Arab or Singapore Marina Bay Sands would concur with this Canadian claim in any case.)

It is nonetheless a spectacular view and setting.

Quebec has been substantially upgraded and the old part is now a wonderful place to roam. The warm night lights bring out the moth characteristics in humans.

The beer also helps.

We had 24 hours in Quebec and the following morning had our first day with breakfast on the balcony in wonderfully warm and still weather.

Steve and Jilly decided on a Canada tour and stayed in an adjoining hotel. We decided on a bit of lunch at the Hotel Chateau Le Frontenac. The bar was enticing as was the presentation of many fine wines. A polar bear guard seemed appropriate.

Steve and Jilly were always ready to pose for a photo but what I was actually surreptitiously  photographing was the ex-prime minister Brian Mulroney ('84 - '93)

Outside we were surprised to see a statue by Salvado Dahli (see Spain blog Sept 2013).

La Fresque des Québécois gave a pictorial history of key city personnel and this complemented the nearby excavations of the old city.

One of the attractions of cruising on a small ship was that those who went ashore made barely any impact on the normal crowds so movement was not stifled (as can occur with larger ships in more popular ports).

Our final port of call was Montreal and after a good breakfast aboard we took a cab to the railway station to store our bags and then set off to see some city highlights. First was the Basilique-Cathédral Marie-Reine-Du-Monde (Mary Queen of the World).

The internal dome was brightly lit and unusually colourful. It reminded us if Ely cathedral and the unresolved challenges of how the dome was built.

We then took the metro to Atwater markets. I have never seen such a diverse range of pumpkins.

The berries were also a very colourful display.

After a bit of lunch we went to see Pam’s younger son Raymond who has a new and quite funky house towards the St Lawrence. We then caught the train (business class as economy would have been too much of a shock to the system after the cruise) and headed to Pam and Robin’s house in Perth. A day or two relaxing and partying (Steve and Jilly also joined in the fun) was just what was needed.

It was also good to catch up with George, Julia and Nichol.

We continued to attract some wonderful weather and with the clear light and start of the autumn (fall) colours had some gorgeous contrasts. This, the view from the house of the lake.

And this looking up from the garden hammock!