Another Country

When in Rome there is the opportunity to visit another country, namely the Vatican. Not too many border controls here except for an entry payment. We went with  a tour run by "Enjoy Roma" and had an excellent guide. There was so much information I could have done with a recorder.

The new ticket hall which Pope John Paul commissioned leads up and out to a large courtyard where the dome of St Peter’s Basilica is immediately apparent glimpsing through the trees.

The gardens are also beautiful but this glimpse was all there was time for.

Being a separate country the Vatican has its own radio which means an unsightly tower.

We were then given a handout of the ceiling paintings within the Sistine Chapel (named after Pope Sixtus IV, who built the chapel in the 1470s). Michelangelo undertook the painting which was a remarkable feat for several reasons: he was not a painter but viewed himself as a sculptor and declined the commission on several occasions (a pretty dangerous thing to do in those days), he had to persuade the Pope to change his requirements so that the pictures represented a story and then the physical challenge of painting from a scaffold over a four year period and not being able to see what it would look like from the ground. Michelangelo was not only a very talented sculptor and artist but was also the architect on several buildings.

The reason for the handout was that you are not allowed to talk in the chapel (only the Pope is allowed to speak here). Additionally, no photography is allowed. 

We first entered a long gallery which was remarkable on two counts – it went on forever (it is some 200 metres long) and slopes down so you really get some appreciation of the length. There are three galleries, paintings, tapestries and maps (paintings). We actually travelled the wrong way as the Pope walks up the gallery and all the ceiling paintings were upside down from our perspective. Underneath us was a second gallery for going the other way!! (Which is not open to the public.)

The level of detail, elegance and integration of the artwork was mesmerising. 

Some of the ceiling was just sumptuous.

This part of the ceiling with its relief looks to be in plaster but is in fact a flat painting.

We went through a gallery (particularly pleasant as it was air conditioned) where there were huge tapestries made in Belgium. This was followed by a gallery of maps. They are remarkably detailed for their time (1580). Although they do take a little time to comprehend as there is no North point - they all point to Rome!

We then went into the supposedly quiet Sistine chapel. This is where the Pope is elected and a chimney is built on these occassions to enable the votes to be burnt. It was fascinating and the handouts were very helpful in understanding the various elements of the paintings. What was disappointing was the frankly disgraceful behaviour of many of the visitors. Some took photographs while many more just could not stop talking. Although there were guards about who tried to keep order it was a useless exercise.

Outside we made our way to the entry to the Basilica. The first door Porta Santa is only opened on special Holy days – every 25 years. There are exceptions as Pope John Paul declared a special year to celebrate Mercy. However, it is not as simple as unlocking it – behind is a wall that first has to be demolished.

Inside is huge and staggeringly beautiful. It took 80 architects to design and build the Basicillica which is not an approach that would normally drive a successful result but they seem to have got it right – eventually. It took 200 years to build so I suspect there was some rejected work along the way. Some of the detail such as perspctive was awesome. These two statues appear to be of a similar size to the viewer (which is the intention as no Saint should be superior to another). However, the top one is almost twice as big as the bottom one so from the ground they appear to be the same size.

Michelangelo’s favourite form was sculpting and he takes pride of place to the right and just inside the entry. This was one piece of marble. The flowing robes almost look soft.

This being Rome no other Basilica in the world is allowed to be larger. In the centre of the floor is a fenced off strip with the lengths of other Basilicas throughout the world. Sydney at 114.61 metres is about half the length of the Vatican at 220m.

The way the light enters through the dome appears heavenly.

The ceiling is reflected in the floor design with each dome outlined in a circle of marble.

As for the paintings – well there aren’t any. This is great news as any photography including flash is allowed. These are mosaics. We had to be told this as there was no way the untrained eye from a distance could pick this up. Look at the colours – which of course don’t fade – just need a bit of a wash periodically.

Zoom in on this photo and see how the water moves around Jesus’s feet and how they are reflected in the water. Extraordinary skills to do this.

The three hour tour was over very quickly and although a walk up to the dome was allowed the team decided that their legs were not up for it. We will need to come back for that experience.

We exited into the main square. It is enormous and no photo can really give an appreciation of the size. Suffice to say the Basilica has space for 60,000 but this number is often exceeded for special events so ceremonies are held in the square where some 400,000 can be accommodated.

As we left the secure area and entered the square there were two Swiss guards on duty. They have been guarding the Vatican since 1506. (Not these two who looked very young.)

Out in the early evening sun it was time to look for a place to sit and have some refreshment.

A last glance back.

There were many enticing restaurants – this was a great bit of decoration  - anyone want to play pick up sticks?

A view of Ponte Vittoria Emanuelle II

from Ponte S Angelo looking towards Castel Saint Angelo.

And finally arriving at our planned destination of Piazza Navona. 

We had a great meal with some very humorous service by two Bangladeshi waiters as we assisted in recruiting other Aussies and Kiwis to a nearby table. Excellent food. One of our waiters assisted with this photo - it is clear that for the moment to be captured it had to include the restaurant's name!

The square however, was a disappointment. Two years ago there was a huge variety of painters, necklace makers etc who made it a really vibrant place. Now it has reduced to cartoon caricature painters and human statues and just lacks diversity with the resultant decline in interest.

However, we did nip round the corner to the Frigidarium for a gelato – nothing had changed there; you still queue in the street and the gelato was still brilliant.