Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Frieburg, Versaille (and their surrounds)

We next used Freiburg in the Black Forest as a base. Day one was spent going into Basel where we packed off Sue and Martin at the airport only to gain their daughter Ngaira from the railway station. This did give us a few hours in Basel to take in the sights none so daft as the local’s desire to hop into the Rhine and drift down with the barges. Many had their clothes in a floating bag so wherever they landed they could dry and change. It was hot and the water cold so in some ways it made sense but not when some started to drift their way into the centre of the river and got short shrift with a loud hoot from this barge.
We followed that excitement with a meal on the banks – very scenic at dusk. We have found Europe to date to be very cheap for Australians, however Switzerland is an exception, buy a significant margin.

When looking at a local map I noticed Titisee (on a lake) was a short train ride away. I had stayed here with my folks as a teenager. As tickets were given away by the campsite we set off for a day so I could reminisce.
It is a beautiful spot and after a suitable lunch we walked the 6kms around the lake so we had room for dinner. The girls found a shop selling Birkenstocks (which are German and about half the Australian cost) and while they were engrossed I awaited a local clock dealers attraction to sound the hour.
As the train trip to Titisee was such a success we decided to repeat the experience and travel further afield to Strasbourg. Part way through we learnt our journey required travel by bus and more walking than we anticipated. As temperatures were in the high 30s it was quite an adventure but worth the effort. Strasbourg is beautiful and we spent some time on a Batbeau travelling around the canal that encompasses the old city. The locks and swing bridge added to the picturesqueness.

In stark comparison is the European Parliament building which is also attractive but definitely a building for the other (dark?) side of the canal. 
We had two leisurely days in Freiburg. In the station we discovered a Starbucks with its free WiFi and Ngaira also enjoyed the attentions of an ex-Derby lad who was serving. The town has a great mix of old and modern buildings. It is a university town and has a real buzz about it. In the square was a cello quintet positioned alongside an open drain which continually ran with fresh water. Freiburg is famous for these “falajahs” (as we called them from our Dubai experience).  
They were a real attraction to children (particularly given the high 30 temperatures).  
 
As we window shopped, for some inexplicable reason, we started to feel hungry..
And we finished our visit with a great meal in a restaurant in the church square.

The time in Freiburg was too short and we have put it on the repeat agenda so we can visit other areas in the Black Forest.
Our next stay was at a previously promised repeat namely Versaille. We had visited the gardens with Lianne and Glen in 2009 but had not been into the chateau. We could walk from the campsite but the 3 kms or so were a little harder than expected as the temperature closed in on 40°C. However, the effort was worth it.
Despite the hordes and heat the chateau was awesome. The first “arm” showed its history in artwork undertaken at the time and models showing the chateau's evolution. The artwork going back to 1400 was not protected in anyway – open to the heat and humidity and within easy reach of anyone who was so inclined. I have not seen such unrestricted access at any other museum.
Most of the other “arms” of the chateau had themes. The Royal Chapel ceiling was exquisite. 
The battle hall had some magnificent paintings and what seems typically French was the inclusion of some contemporary art. Personally I found they blocked views of the paintings and detracted from the experience.  I suspect others may suggest this viewpoint was more to do with my age group and staid ways.
Napoleon featured on numerous occasions. This is the battle of Wagram from 1809.
After an exhausting day we retired to a great nights sleep – thanks to the van’s air-conditioning as it remained in the high 20s overnight.
The site was a ten minute walk to the railway and we took a train ride to Paris with a view to visiting the Musee D’Orsay, go inside Notre Dame and go up the Eiffel tower at night. Unfortunately, we had picked a Monday and the Museum was closed. However, Notre Dame was buzzing. Apart from viewing the wonderful stain glass windows we also went into the treasury (for a fee - typical of accountants everywhere).
Some of the displays were quite unusual and some included very detailed gold and gem work.
There were also cameos of each Pope.
 Some of the more recent ones are recognisable
We noticed in Norway that some of the bridges have succumbed to a recent fad of putting padlocks to commemorate various personal events (eg marriage - locked in for life) onto bridge railings. One of the bridges adjoining Notre Dame was covered in locks. I am sure this is not a load that is catered for in bridge designs.
We joined a jump on/off Bateaux and travelled up river to the Eiffel Tower.
After a pleasant meal at a nearby restaurant we made our way in the queues to get the lift up the tower and arrived at level two as the sun was setting.
The lights then went on while we queued for the lift to the top.
At the top there are two levels. The lower one is enclosed and around the perimeter has the direction of towers throughout the world (height and distance). Here is Canberra..

The view to the North over the city and Seine is wonderful and a completely different perspective to a trip up during the day. Here the Louvre and Notre Dame can be seen as well as the Musee D’Orsay – still closed.

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