Halling Holidays: Scotland, the Orkneys and some real heritage

After a brief couple of days we took the ‘van and headed up to Scotland for a week exploring the East coast and Orkneys. Kate and Alan had travelled ahead to “do” Edinburgh so we decided to meet near Stirling to do “Wallace”. Our first visit was to the Wallace Memorial which importantly is a 246 steps tower (or 220 ft) built in 1869. It gives a great view of Stirling castle which overlooks the bend in the river where Wallace (Braveheart) inflicted his significant defeat of the English way back in 1297. The English and their heavy forces crossed the narrow bridge and when attacked spread out across the bank as they could not all withdraw across the bridge. The ground being marshy resulted in the horses and men slowly sinking where they could be picked off at will. The English could have crossed the river further up but decided this was too costly. 10 years late Robert Bruce used the same tactics to the same effect. Some never learn from history.

At the foot of the memorial a Scots guide gave a vivid story of Wallace and his eventual downfall in London where he was hung, drawn and quartered. The guide was suitably armed with a sword, axe and several daggers which he at various time wielded to add impact to his yarn.

Inside the tower the most memorable display was that of Wallace talking to others (on a screen) within the room. The actor’s face was projected onto a moulded head and looked very realistic as it spoke, smiled and sneered with disdain at the English King.

His two handed sword is also on display – vital statistics - a 52 inch blade and 66 inches long overall. In order to wield such a sword Wallace would have to have been a large man – at least 6 ft 6 inches (not Mel Gibson at 5’ something).

We then made the short trip to the castle. This has been largely refurbished in a manner similar to the original and had a number of suitably attired people to answer questions. There are none so attentive as past teachers.

The castle also overlooks the Wallace memorial although I am not sure this cannon has the range.

We then travelled through the highlands via Balmoral. Unfortunately the Queen was in so we could not visit her castle and had instead to put up with a tour of the nearby Royal Lochnager distillery where some tasting (and purchases) were in order. We then took the ‘van over the Cairngorms to the North East tip of Scotland. Contrary to popular belief John O’Groats below is not the most northerly point.

It is in fact Dunnet Head with the most North Easterly point being Duncansby Head. A walk across the headland was warranted as seals could be heard carrying on. With the distance and low light it was hard to pick whether they were common or grey seals (most likely the former) but the cliffs really acted as an amphitheatre and carried their cries a significant distance notwithstanding the breeze. (Zoom in to see that there are many seals in this small area.)

As Helen and I had never been, an overnight trip to the Orkneys was appropriate. While waiting for the ferry we watched a fishing boat offloading large bins of Haddock straight into articulated trucks for transport South.

The one hour forty minute ferry ride saw us in Stromness. Beautiful when the sun is shining and it is calm.

We undertook a quick tour starting with Skara Brae which dates back to 3100 BC. (Compare this to the Great Wall of China 220 BC, Stonehenge 2100 BC or the Pyramids of Giza 2500 BC.) The stone work was remarkably preserved together with the stone flag furniture. The shelves in the middle were for displaying things and the troughs at either side are beds where straw and skins would be used to for a softer nights sleep.

We stopped overnight at a B&B in a converted mill. This was a special evening as Helen and I celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary (11 August). I was naturally happy at having been so lucky for so long and Helen does not look too disappointed either. (If you look carefully the right hand is displaying a new ruby ring from last years Burma trip.) We had a wonderful meal and wines and as with recent anniversaries shared the occasion, in this case with Kate and Alan who generously supplied champagne and a poster of QV signed by the Captain. A great memoir.

Our second Orkney day included further exploring. A new discovery has been made at the Ness of Brodgar which also dates back to 3200 BC. There were two dozen student archaeologists fossicking around during their 6 week summer break. They are over 2 years behind in working through the artefacts they have found.

Nearby there are two rings of Stone – this is the Ring of Brodgar and at 104 metres across (with a further 10 metre ditch) is one of the largest Neolithic Henges (circular enclosures) in Britain.

What initially infuriated most of us was that some people had recently carved their names into some of the stones. However, this is hardly a new idea as S Bister did the same back in 1881 (although I am not sure that makes it OK).

In Kirkwall there is St Magnus Cathedral which is huge. Wondering around inside was enhanced by the organ playing which helped to distract attention from the fact that many of the large supporting columns had a significant inward lean.

We then travelled to the East end of Scapa flow where Churchill’s barrier was built by Italian prisoners of war. The Italians in their spare time (and despairing of the location and climate) decided to build a church out of two Nissan huts. It is beautifully decorated.

Both outside and in..

Originally the East end of Scapa Flow was protected by sinking some ships which can still be seen. However, when a German U boat managed to go over the top and sink the HMS Royal Oak, Churchill ordered the construction of the barriers (which run between three islands) using 10 Ton concrete blocks.

As we toured Stromness awaiting the ferry we could not help but notice that a number of our family have had an impact on the towns development as recorded by various signs.