Napier and all that jazz



When we last visited New Zealand (for the rugby world cup in 2011) Helen became aware of an annual Art Deco festival in Napier and advised we would be going there in 2013. Sue and Martin also could not resist the opportunity of some fun centred on Architecture. Napier suffered a large earthquake on the 3rd February 1931 which resulted in some 256 deaths. Most buildings were destroyed but replaced over the following years with Architecture of the time “Art Deco”. It is a beautiful and interesting city as the view from the local Bluff hill attests.

There are still rumbles today and Helen experienced her first earthquake when we were sitting in our Motel. (This time the earth really did move for her!) Fortunately a mild one (Friday, February 15 2013 at 4:10:58 pm). They are always nerve racking not knowing how big and long they will go for. NZ has them all the time (see http://www.geonet.org.nz/quakes/felt). What we found fascinating is that the 1931 ‘quake raised the flat land around Napier some 2 metres. The before and after map below shows the extent. It certainly sped up the reclamation work that was going on at the time!

 

South of Hastings we travelled up to Te Mata Ridge. The views were great but this one shows numerous little land slips due to all the seismic cativity.

Napier has many wonderful examples of Art Deco. The Dome in the T&G bulding is a good start sited as it is on the waterfront.

The nearby Masonic building where the pavements were gilded with vintage cars. (There were more than 300 on display over the weekend).

This is an Irish founded building. If the name doesn’t indicate this to you the little shamrock underneath should! 

Even the manholes (sorry that should be person holes) were suitably decorated.

The Tobacco factory had some interesting history. The original business owner was a German but despite being successful his heritage resulted in him being thrown out by the board during the war years. He set up in Auckland and after the war the Napier business flounderd and he bought out the old directors (gaining justice and hopefully making  a pretty penny).

The building was sold to Rothmans but more recently has been bought by the Council and refurbished to its former glory. Some of the details are brilliant thanks to great craftsmanship.

Inside was just as spectacular with lead windows and a ceiling dome as well as more detailed timberwork.

We mixed architecture with playing and Helen had an evening event organised for every night. We started at a black and white ball at the Opera House in Napier. This was followed by a show called the “War birds” with songs from the war. However, our favourite was a meal and  prohibition jazz night at the “Church”. Certainly this church had a lot of followers who did not mind imbibing.

The food, drink and company were excellent and as with the whole weekend most were suitable attired to marry with the times.

The range of vintage vehicles was vast. We saw old Fords through to some 30 Bentleys all parked alongside one another in their racing green. Of course the most popular for someone was the retired Queens limousine (although as it was built in 1969 it was not quite Art Deco). It was retired in 2005 and some locals purchased it to stave off  USA interests. It can now be hired for wine tours – something for next time.

By contrast this steam roller was available for rides (in the attached cart) for a few dollars and had quite a number queuing for the round town trip.

Of course there had to be a trip on a heritage train. Our coach was built in 1906 and we had a wonderful time with a return trip to Hastings. Here the girls are tripping along to our carriage.

Even the carriages were suitably decorated for the occasion.

The weather was great all weekend with nonstop sunshine and mid to high 20s. The downside was the lack of rain meant there was a fire risk so we could not be pulled by a steam loco however the diesel was from 1957 (built by Clyde in Australia - for the train spotters more details are at http://www.steaminc.org.nz/). She was beautifully turned out and looked great despite the adornment of wannabe driver and  foot-plateman.

During our trip to Hasting we raced a Vintage Ford. Looks like a shot from the Great Gatsby.

Our Motel was in Hastings and its centre was also largely Art Deco. One unusual aspect was a water feature that was split in the middle by the railway track. Martin and I got up earlier than normal to snap this shot of the train leaving after the weekend on its way back to Palmerston North.

Farewell for another year…

As a contrast to all the land based transport on several days we were treated to a spectacular air show.

Don’t you just love it?

And to ensure the heritage theme continued in the air - a Tiger Moth.

We also attended a dinner show entitled Noel and Gurtie which was great fun.

Now here is a dapper crew - cocktails before the show at the opera house.

Although you could buy any amount of Art Deco clothes we did succumb to more modern attire on our last day. We had a wonderful meal at the restaurant at Craggy Range vineyard. Clams for entrée, duck for main and great wines. This is what long lunches are all about.

Outside was so pristine and well kempt.

Our last evening was spent at the Gin Trap where we met up with James and Leanne. Although this hook up was arranged, during the weekend we kept meeting them at the evening functions and they even drove past us when we were at the Tobacco Factory. Other than the last night (where I had stipulated 2013 dress code) they had been beautifully turned out with different 1930’s attire on each occasion. I have deliberately omitted the photos of them in costume so the shots of us do not appear so shabby.

They were a wonderful and very entertaining couple. Hopefully we will meet up with then again when they are travelling or working as musicians on a cruise somewhere.  

We spent six days based in Napier and still missed many attractions –and the rest of NZ was bypassed – another plan is needed.