Scotland, the Orkneys and some real heritage

After a brief couple of days we took the ‘van and headed up to Scotland for a week exploring the East coast and Orkneys. Kate and Alan had travelled ahead to “do” Edinburgh so we decided to meet near Stirling to do “Wallace”. Our first visit was to the Wallace Memorial which importantly is a 246 steps tower (or 220 ft) built in 1869. It gives a great view of Stirling castle which overlooks the bend in the river where Wallace (Braveheart) inflicted his significant defeat of the English way back in 1297. The English and their heavy forces crossed the narrow bridge and when attacked spread out across the bank as they could not all withdraw across the bridge. The ground being marshy resulted in the horses and men slowly sinking where they could be picked off at will. The English could have crossed the river further up but decided this was too costly. 10 years late Robert Bruce used the same tactics to the same effect. Some never learn from history.

At the foot of the memorial a Scots guide gave a vivid story of Wallace and his eventual downfall in London where he was hung, drawn and quartered. The guide was suitably armed with a sword, axe and several daggers which he at various time wielded to add impact to his yarn.

Inside the tower the most memorable display was that of Wallace talking to others (on a screen) within the room. The actor’s face was projected onto a moulded head and looked very realistic as it spoke, smiled and sneered with disdain at the English King.

His two handed sword is also on display – vital statistics - a 52 inch blade and 66 inches long overall. In order to wield such a sword Wallace would have to have been a large man – at least 6 ft 6 inches (not Mel Gibson at 5’ something).

We then made the short trip to the castle. This has been largely refurbished in a manner similar to the original and had a number of suitably attired people to answer questions. There are none so attentive as past teachers.

The castle also overlooks the Wallace memorial although I am not sure this cannon has the range.

We then travelled through the highlands via Balmoral. Unfortunately the Queen was in so we could not visit her castle and had instead to put up with a tour of the nearby Royal Lochnager distillery where some tasting (and purchases) were in order. We then took the ‘van over the Cairngorms to the North East tip of Scotland. Contrary to popular belief John O’Groats below is not the most northerly point. 

It is in fact Dunnet Head with the most North Easterly point being Duncansby Head. A walk across the headland was warranted as seals could be heard carrying on. With the distance and low light it was hard to pick whether they were common or grey seals (most likely the former) but the cliffs really acted as an amphitheatre and carried their cries a significant distance notwithstanding the breeze. (Zoom in to see that there are many seals in this small area.)

As Helen and I had never been, an overnight trip to the Orkneys was appropriate. While waiting for the ferry we watched a fishing boat offloading large bins of Haddock straight into articulated trucks for transport South.

The one hour forty minute ferry ride saw us in Stromness. Beautiful when the sun is shining and it is calm.

We undertook a quick tour starting with Skara Brae which dates back to 3100 BC. (Compare this to the Great Wall of China 220 BC, Stonehenge 2100 BC or the Pyramids of Giza 2500 BC.) The stone work was remarkably preserved together with the stone flag furniture. The shelves in the middle were for displaying things and the troughs at either side are beds where straw and skins would be used to for a softer nights sleep.

We stopped overnight at a B&B in a converted mill. This was a special evening as Helen and I celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary (11 August). I was naturally happy at having been so lucky for so long and Helen does not look too disappointed either. (If you look carefully the right hand is displaying a new ruby ring from last years Burma trip.) We had a wonderful meal and wines and as with recent anniversaries shared the occasion, in this case with Kate and Alan who generously supplied champagne and a poster of QV signed by the Captain. A great memoir.

Our second Orkney day included further exploring. A new discovery has been made at the Ness of Brodgar which also dates back to 3200 BC. There were two dozen student archaeologists fossicking around during their 6 week summer break. They are over 2 years behind in working through the artefacts they have found.

Nearby there are two rings of Stone – this is the Ring of Brodgar and at 104 metres across (with a further 10 metre ditch) is one of the largest Neolithic Henges (circular enclosures) in Britain.

What initially infuriated most of us was that some  people had recently carved their names into some of the stones. However, this is hardly a new idea as S Bister did the same back in 1881 (although I am not sure that makes it OK).

In Kirkwall there is St Magnus Cathedral which is huge. Wondering around inside was enhanced by the organ playing which helped to distract attention from the fact that many of the large supporting columns had a significant inward lean.

We then travelled to the East end of Scapa flow where Churchill’s barrier was built by Italian prisoners of war. The Italians in their spare time (and despairing of the location and climate) decided to build a church out of two Nissan huts. It is beautifully decorated.

Both outside and in..

Originally the East end of Scapa Flow was protected by sinking some ships which can still be seen. However, when a German U boat managed to go over the top and sink the HMS Royal Oak, Churchill ordered the construction of the barriers (which run between three islands) using 10 Ton concrete blocks.

As we toured Stromness awaiting the ferry we could not help but notice that a number of our family have had an impact on the towns development as recorded by various signs.

During the ferry trip we passed the island of Hoy including the Old man of Hoy. Quite a spectacular stack at nearly 137 metres.

Helen and I have always enjoyed visits to Scotland but the Orkneys added a quite different experience from the mainland.

Kristiansand and the last sea day

Our last stop was at Kristiansand which was named after the King and it’s sandy beach. It is a popular holiday spot for Norwegians as it is there southernmost town – however, it is on the same latitude as the Orkneys so summer expectations are a little different to Australia. Mind you the long days and moist conditions do give rise to some great flowers both cultivated and wild.

In order to emphasise the sandy aspects of the town there were a range of sand sculptures.

The town is quite small but has an historic block of largely wooden buildings

With slightly later additions being rendered and brightly coloured.

The local fish markets were adjacent to QV’s berth and had a real waterfront feel to it with not just markets but also a range of restaurants. QV in the background underscores how close to the town we got – no buses into the centre here.

And so to our last day at sea. Time also for our last black tie dinner. All really looked the part.

The two youngest of the party felt they should be in a shot of their own.

While the more senior elements (as opposed to mature) were also happy to be together……

One of our waiters tried to convince us that she was sad to see us go

But in reality sommelier Andrea (who gave us a privately arranged Chilean wine tasting evening), Dorota, Egor, and Anna Marie were delighted this was our last night.

A great trip due largely to the convivial company (all seemed to enjoy each others company) and some remarkable cities many of which would not be visited any other way, an excellent cruise ship (although I suspect many would view QM2 as superior in a range of little ways) and extraordinarily 14 days with sunshine – how lucky was that?

Now where can we cruise to next???

Warnemunde (well Rostock) and Copenhagen

We arrived at Warnemunde (North Germany) after a much needed rest with a day at sea. We were moored at the entrance to the river/harbour and were in the thick of the traffic. The cross river ferry had to manipulate around QV’s bow and time their crossing between international ferries.

Many of the team took off to Lubceck which we visited last year (see July 2012 blog) so this time we opted for a trip to Rostock. This was in four parts – a brief coach ride to the tram terminus where we boarded a tram.

The tram took us through Rostock and we quickly got a feel for the place. Religious converts are in decline so even the high church and its roof space has been converted into units. Apparently this is a lofty conversion.

Our third mode of transport was on foot and included a visit to St Mary’s church which houses an amazing astrological clock. It covers the period from the 14thC through to 2017 and is the oldest working clock in Europe. Apart from the alignment of stars and resultant information it also tells normal time, day, month and year. With the clock “running out” in 2017 an elderly professor has used the old astrological methods to design a new disc. He also set a group of his brighter students the challenge of using computers to undertake the design of the new disc. Thankfully both these stars aligned and the new disc can now be built.

Much of Rostock was destroyed during the war and the buildings now on display are largely copies of the original buildings. One of the buildings that survived shows the detailed baroque brickwork that exists in some parts. The bricks included a variety of shapes with some also glazed - an intricate design which would certainly challenge your average brickie.

By contrast a recent building has a simple shape and façade. However, as with much architecture this had caused some controversy. The result is a sculpture has been added to the roof which is said to be of the architect so that he can consider what he has done and presumably jump if needs be.

The fourth mode of transport back to the ships was a canal boat (including beer and nibbles). They make the large river cruisers in Warnemunde. This one has been completed and has had plywood added to protect the windows while it travels across the Baltic and other seas to its destination.

Liebherr the crane manufacturer is also based here as is a company building the bases for marine located wind towers. There is a lot more structure below the water level than above.

All this engineering was a bit too much for the girls who were happier drinking and giggling.

The next day saw us in Copenhagen where we opted for a visit to “Fairy tale castles”. A bit of a misnomer with Kronberg Castle (or Slot as they are known locally) which guards the narrow Sound between Denmark and Sweden. This was built in order to derive taxes from shipping passing through the straights (now 30,000 vessels pa). If you did not pay then cannon were set off. Due to references in his writings it appears that Shakespeare may have visited and hence the more romantic name of Hamlet castle is sometimes used.

We also visited the Summer palace which is often inhabited by the Crown Prince Frederik, his Australian wife Mary and their four children. Much more detail is available from our in-house Royalist Helen.

Lunch was a local spread including pickled herrings (three varieties). What was a little unexpected is that we dined at a retirement village. (This was not a marketing exercise as only Danes can live here and only those who have to have been out of the country for at least 2 years. There is also a waiting list.) 

The design of the village was unusual with each unit being well lit with plenty of South facing windows over their own courtyard but very few windows to common areas. (The village was one of the first designs by John Utzon who went onto design the Sydney opera house and  the Kuwait parliament building.) As a result the common backyard was very private, spacious and quite with only the faint noise of club on ball from the golf course that ran along the valley beyond. (OK there was also the occasional “fore” and whatever the Danish equivalent of “dam” is - I am mindful that this blog is also read by children.)

The final Slot was Frederiksborg. We approached via the spectacular gardens where not a blade was out of place.

The other side of the slot is Neptune’s Fountain. It is a really elaborate affair but is almost insignificant against the background of the Slot and its copper roofs and ornate brickwork.

What was striking about this castle is that it is also contains current day decorations. In the great hall there were coats of arms everywhere. The latest were in one alcove. This is one designed for John Donaldson (you know - Mary’s old man).

By contrast this is the oldest working transportable organ in Europe and was built in 1610. The bellows are operated by pull cords on the right hand structure where the rectangular panels open and close. It was built be a craftsman called Compenius, has 1001 pipes made from various rare woods and breaks down into components for easy transport and has been played in a variety of churches and cathedrals.

Some of the paintings are quite realistic albeit inevitably with a battle focus – this is dated 1883.

By contrast this is a more contemporary painting showing Queen Mary, with Crown Prince Frederik and first son Christian. In Denmark the Kings names alternate between Frederik and Christian which is in stark contrast to England and all the hype surrounding Kate’s recent child – no business for bookmakers here.

Finally just to prove we were in Copenhagen….