The Outer Hebrides

The Hebrides comprises over 70 outer islands and a similar number of inner islands. They have a few descriptions in common; beautiful, rugged, dangerous and defensible. One danger is for shipping. Low cloud (Scottish mist!) and winds make it dangerous for shipping and hence lighthouses abound. There are some 200 in Scotland, most of which were built by Robert Stevenson (the first in 1808) and four generations of his descendants (Robert Louis Stevenson the writer was his grandson and although he trained as an engineer and lawyer is most famous for his books). 

Lismore lighthouse (incorrectly named as it is on Eilean (island) Musdile) on the Firth of Lorne is at the entrance to the loch of the same name. It signals the entrance to the Caledonian canal and is readily viewed from the ferry to Oban. 

Weather makes a difference as this shot of Tiumpian Head lighthouse on Lewis demonstrates. It was built in 1900 by David Alan Stevenson.

The danger also helps with defences particularly when there is a suitable outcrop on which to build a relatively small structure. Castle Stalker is just North of Oban and was built around 1320 for those war mongering MacDougalls when they were Lords of Lorn (in stark comparison to my peace-loving kin - the Maclouds). The mist rather adds to a feeling of desolation.

By comparison the sun on Kisimul Castle off Castlebay on Barra makes this medieval castle (1427) almost inviting. 

Spoilt for choice? Well how about Oban lighthouse AND Dunollie castle. The latter is unfortunately in ruins, quite small and sits on a hill north of Oban. It was the family home of the MacDougalls and dates back to the 12^th century. (Some parts may even go back to the 7^th C.)

What was interesting is the ground floor arched ceiling which (from impressions) appears to have been formed using willow trees. In the garden at the rear is a sculpture using the same technique. Rounded bars were used as a form to tie willow branches. They then grew rapidly to make a dense form and hide the initial metal. The result is a thick form on which a more permanent arch structure can be built.

At the opposite end of all this history is McCaig’s tower (more often referred to as a folly) which was built by a philanthropic banker. It was started in 1897 and abandoned upon his death in 1902 (cardiac arrest at 78). It was meant to be a monument to his family and based on Rome’s colosseum.  

It overlooks Oban and is a pleasant walk up. It is far from the grandiose of Rome but it did employ quite a few stonemasons during the winter months.

It also provides a wonderful viewpoint of the town and surrounding waters.

When the sun poked out there were many wonderfully dappled views over mountains and water. A first glance suggests snow but not when it is 17°C. The herons were enjoying the shallow tidal water to see what might be trapped.

Following a little diversion up a long dead-end road we came across St Clements church. Built in 1520 for the MacLeod clan chiefs (Dunvegan and Harris) it fell into ruin after the Protestant reformation of 1560 and was not rebuilt for another two centuries. 

Inside is a simple, large and somehow quite emotive church. Alastair Macleod’s tomb (16C) is apparently one of the best preserved in Scotland.

Another defensive bastion are Broch towers. These were occupied by the main family and the village retreated to them in times of conflict. The external wall was some 2 metres thick with a spiral staircase supported on an inner wall of similar proportions. Timber floors spanned the inner walls with livestock on the bottom, kitchens and the like on the next floor and bedrooms at the top, finished off by a conical roof. This one is Dun Carloway on Lewis.

As we moved around the islands it seem there was something to explore every half hour or so. In Muileann there was a Norse Mill and Kiln. The mill stone was driven by a horizontal water wheel. Some refurbishment had occurred here!

But not at the Calanais standing stones which were started in 2900 BC (cultivation started 600 years previously) and went through a series of enlargements up to 1000 BC.  Clearly a very important seat of power over many centuries. At the centre is a burial chamber.  

Todays seat of power (well capital) is Stornoway which is on the Isle of Lewis and not Harris as some may have thought! Of course this is even more misleading when it is appreciated that Harris and Lewis are in fact one island and the castle is spelt Lews….. I give up.

The castle of course was located to give great views of the surroundings and early warning of intruders. Nowadays it is more about colourful surroundings and visitors than attackers.