Hebridean views and lifestyle.

One unanticipated view on these rugged islands was vast white beaches. The West coast is adorned with them. Green hills, emerald-blue waters and white sand – what a place to live (in summer).  

We were lucky to have quite a few very calm days for reflective shots. Away from the beaches white sands are replaced by white houses to maintain the vibrant colour contrast. This was taken on the Lochaline to Fishnish (Island of Mull) ferry.

The ferries also provided a bit of contrast. This one at least ran on time, but we were forced to take it as we had been bounced off the one we had booked for Oban to Mull. In short, the ferries were a shambles. The communication system was appalling and the time wasted not just by customers but also staff would not compare well with Indian rail. Suffice to say a three-page letter is waiting on a response from the CEO.

Low tide enabled some great fishing. These terns were almost 100% successful in their diving endeavours.

Just as well as nothing appeared to be consumed by the birds as they flew off with loaded beaks presumably to a nest with ever hungry youngsters.

However, our real bird highlight was taking a walk on Benbecula and seeing a pair of golden eagles wheeling around. Majestic.

On the other end of the activity scale was this black "hairy cow". The location on a mound with a stunning background was clearly intentional. The only thing missing was a hat to collect coins for being the perfect model. The air of superiority was underpinned by the only other cow in the area being brown, mixed breed and clearly not hairy enough.

A little further up the road an emergency stop was required to jump out and photograph these skittish deer. They seem to react differently at night. Our midnight drive from Oban to Uig (another part of the ferry debacle) gave rise to many encounters with herds of deer (some with wonderful horns) who just stood on the verge and looked at us as we drove past. They seemed mesmerised by the headlights and in no way startled and likely to leap across our path. (A lesson many a kangaroo could learn.) 

An hour later we came across our second black hairy cow. The attitude, location and running mate were all present. Rather a spooky case of deja-vu. 

One activity known about the world over is digging peat – well that is anyone who has had scotch whisky. It remains a large industry with many peat trenches cutting swathes over the landscape. The regular drying out piles were testament of the extent of current activity. It does make one wonder about the environmental goal of scotch whisky distillers.

Just down the road was a small herd of sheep being drenched with the help of two sheep dogs. The farmer advised they were two of four that he ran. On the left was the oldest while the nearest was only just past his puppy days. That said the instinctive skills were clearly apparent.

The friendliness of the people is underpinned by respect and trust and really demonstrated by this lunch shop. Hot pasties (maintained in a pie warmer), pastries and other goodies were all available. Prices were marked together with a tin for collecting funds. No shop keeper to be seen. Just a queue of consumers whom I am happy to report were all doing the right thing. Brilliant.

Another unexpected site we encountered in our walk down from the Oban folly was this Gaudi like tile art. A Little Barcelona.

A key reason for visiting Mull was Tobermory. This colourful little town is very supportive of tourism with restaurants and a micro brewery (every customer encouraged to go behind the counter) doing a great trade. In the bay was a small cruise ship. Of course fishing is also a major part of the economy. Lunch for me was a half lobster – damn the expense – it was delicious.

It is such a colourful town that a second reflective shot without the fishing pots seemed appropriate.

During our changed return ferry to the mainland (what should have been 1.5 hours was more like a cruise of 9 hours) we encountered an ocean going rowboat. These are operated by Rannoch and you can participate in a range of tours such as around Scotland – all for a mere £300 per day. Seems like a very expensive way of keeping fit.

After a fascinating two weeks having avoided the heatwave in the rest of the country it was time to head South. We had a stopover near Lockerbie and visited the memorial garden for the Pan Am disaster on 21 December 1988. Well maintained and very moving.

In the town the clocktower is elaborate and well maintained. Not so the adjacent building where a tree from the roof has clearly been growing for many years. It appears fish and chips is not that profitable.

We wrapped up this segment of the trip with a stay at a CL (certified location). The site had been suggested by a friend and proved to have very hospitable hosts who were quite happy for us to have a stroll round their lovely garden.