A London outing

Our plans to meet Sue and Martin on their canal boat, were thwarted as the drought resulted in the Oxford canal running out of water. The quickly developed alternative, was a day trip to London.

In years gone by Helen and I, when passing on the train, regularly joked about how many bricks were in Battersea power station. In the ‘70’s it was a rundown industrial area. Not so today where it is the latest competition to Canary Wharf. The power plant has been converted to a stunning array of flats and the surrounds have also be completely rejuvinated with many new unit blocks. Shops are opening and the place is a hub of activity. The new underground station and wharf have also helped.

Although it melds well with the surrounding buildings with its bright white chimneys, from the river it still cuts a very imposing building.

We took the Uber ferry downstream (thanks to the tide it was against the flow) and passed the old London to Chatham and Dover railway bridge (1862) over which we travelled when we saw Battersea. The bridge was demolished in the 1980s as it was not deemed safe enough for modern railway stock. The piers have been left intact as there were fears their removal could endanger the footings of the adjacent Blackfriars bridge. 

The piers are a stunning monument which are advertised at the end abutment with a striking refurbished insignia of the line.

Our walk was directed towards the nearby refurbished OXO building which has a great view from its rooftop restaurant. A long lunch helped in taking in the views.

The first was a section of the enormous Tideway project. It is a new 25 km long 7.2 metre diameter sewer system. It is huge! It will protect the Thames for the next 100 years from inadvertent sewage release and cater for the anticipated population doubling between now and 2060 (8.8M to 16M).

The Victoria embankment foreshore was opposite our lunch spot and is one of 24 locations where access to the (now completed) tunnels will occur. All is on track for completion in 2025.

Of course, no trip in this area would be complete without a shot of the London Eye. Given it was a Millenium project and due to be removed after the first year or so it has been very profitable. It has also resulted in major improvements to what was a rundown area and despite the £36 ticket price is still pretty popular. It is still the largest cantilevered cable observation wheel in Europe.

Opposite is the much older structure of Westminster (1837 - 1860). It is imposing on a couple of levels. It has recently gone through a large refurbishment and the sandstone now really glows in the light.

I particularly wanted to see the clocktower which is the face of Big Ben. Most of my life it has been black hands and numerals. During refurbishment, they peeled back the paint and found the original was Prussian Blue. This has now been reinstated. It really works against the blond stonework with the real gold finishes glistening in the sun. (Real gold is used as it lasts longer than paint. Theft at that height and visibility would appear unlikely!)

Although this is a blog on London you will probably have noticed the engineering theme. With that in mind I had to include Westminster underground. This was rebuilt as part of the Jubilee line in 1999. It is a solid engineering infrastructure which looks great. Who needs architects? I am sure they played their part but either way the result is stunning. Every view is different – it makes riding the escalator much more interesting than the conventional enclosed tube. 

Hebridean views and lifestyle.

One unanticipated view on these rugged islands was vast white beaches. The West coast is adorned with them. Green hills, emerald-blue waters and white sand – what a place to live (in summer).  

We were lucky to have quite a few very calm days for reflective shots. Away from the beaches white sands are replaced by white houses to maintain the vibrant colour contrast. This was taken on the Lochaline to Fishnish (Island of Mull) ferry.

The ferries also provided a bit of contrast. This one at least ran on time, but we were forced to take it as we had been bounced off the one we had booked for Oban to Mull. In short, the ferries were a shambles. The communication system was appalling and the time wasted not just by customers but also staff would not compare well with Indian rail. Suffice to say a three-page letter is waiting on a response from the CEO.

Low tide enabled some great fishing. These terns were almost 100% successful in their diving endeavours.

Just as well as nothing appeared to be consumed by the birds as they flew off with loaded beaks presumably to a nest with ever hungry youngsters.

However, our real bird highlight was taking a walk on Benbecula and seeing a pair of golden eagles wheeling around. Majestic.

On the other end of the activity scale was this black "hairy cow". The location on a mound with a stunning background was clearly intentional. The only thing missing was a hat to collect coins for being the perfect model. The air of superiority was underpinned by the only other cow in the area being brown, mixed breed and clearly not hairy enough.

A little further up the road an emergency stop was required to jump out and photograph these skittish deer. They seem to react differently at night. Our midnight drive from Oban to Uig (another part of the ferry debacle) gave rise to many encounters with herds of deer (some with wonderful horns) who just stood on the verge and looked at us as we drove past. They seemed mesmerised by the headlights and in no way startled and likely to leap across our path. (A lesson many a kangaroo could learn.) 

An hour later we came across our second black hairy cow. The attitude, location and running mate were all present. Rather a spooky case of deja-vu. 

One activity known about the world over is digging peat – well that is anyone who has had scotch whisky. It remains a large industry with many peat trenches cutting swathes over the landscape. The regular drying out piles were testament of the extent of current activity. It does make one wonder about the environmental goal of scotch whisky distillers.

Just down the road was a small herd of sheep being drenched with the help of two sheep dogs. The farmer advised they were two of four that he ran. On the left was the oldest while the nearest was only just past his puppy days. That said the instinctive skills were clearly apparent.

The friendliness of the people is underpinned by respect and trust and really demonstrated by this lunch shop. Hot pasties (maintained in a pie warmer), pastries and other goodies were all available. Prices were marked together with a tin for collecting funds. No shop keeper to be seen. Just a queue of consumers whom I am happy to report were all doing the right thing. Brilliant.

Another unexpected site we encountered in our walk down from the Oban folly was this Gaudi like tile art. A Little Barcelona.

A key reason for visiting Mull was Tobermory. This colourful little town is very supportive of tourism with restaurants and a micro brewery (every customer encouraged to go behind the counter) doing a great trade. In the bay was a small cruise ship. Of course fishing is also a major part of the economy. Lunch for me was a half lobster – damn the expense – it was delicious.

It is such a colourful town that a second reflective shot without the fishing pots seemed appropriate.

During our changed return ferry to the mainland (what should have been 1.5 hours was more like a cruise of 9 hours) we encountered an ocean going rowboat. These are operated by Rannoch and you can participate in a range of tours such as around Scotland – all for a mere £300 per day. Seems like a very expensive way of keeping fit.

After a fascinating two weeks having avoided the heatwave in the rest of the country it was time to head South. We had a stopover near Lockerbie and visited the memorial garden for the Pan Am disaster on 21 December 1988. Well maintained and very moving.

In the town the clocktower is elaborate and well maintained. Not so the adjacent building where a tree from the roof has clearly been growing for many years. It appears fish and chips is not that profitable.

We wrapped up this segment of the trip with a stay at a CL (certified location). The site had been suggested by a friend and proved to have very hospitable hosts who were quite happy for us to have a stroll round their lovely garden.

The Outer Hebrides

The Hebrides comprises over 70 outer islands and a similar number of inner islands. They have a few descriptions in common; beautiful, rugged, dangerous and defensible. One danger is for shipping. Low cloud (Scottish mist!) and winds make it dangerous for shipping and hence lighthouses abound. There are some 200 in Scotland, most of which were built by Robert Stevenson (the first in 1808) and four generations of his descendants (Robert Louis Stevenson the writer was his grandson and although he trained as an engineer and lawyer is most famous for his books). 

Lismore lighthouse (incorrectly named as it is on Eilean (island) Musdile) on the Firth of Lorne is at the entrance to the loch of the same name. It signals the entrance to the Caledonian canal and is readily viewed from the ferry to Oban. 

Weather makes a difference as this shot of Tiumpian Head lighthouse on Lewis demonstrates. It was built in 1900 by David Alan Stevenson.

The danger also helps with defences particularly when there is a suitable outcrop on which to build a relatively small structure. Castle Stalker is just North of Oban and was built around 1320 for those war mongering MacDougalls when they were Lords of Lorn (in stark comparison to my peace-loving kin - the Maclouds). The mist rather adds to a feeling of desolation.

By comparison the sun on Kisimul Castle off Castlebay on Barra makes this medieval castle (1427) almost inviting. 

Spoilt for choice? Well how about Oban lighthouse AND Dunollie castle. The latter is unfortunately in ruins, quite small and sits on a hill north of Oban. It was the family home of the MacDougalls and dates back to the 12^th century. (Some parts may even go back to the 7^th C.)

What was interesting is the ground floor arched ceiling which (from impressions) appears to have been formed using willow trees. In the garden at the rear is a sculpture using the same technique. Rounded bars were used as a form to tie willow branches. They then grew rapidly to make a dense form and hide the initial metal. The result is a thick form on which a more permanent arch structure can be built.

At the opposite end of all this history is McCaig’s tower (more often referred to as a folly) which was built by a philanthropic banker. It was started in 1897 and abandoned upon his death in 1902 (cardiac arrest at 78). It was meant to be a monument to his family and based on Rome’s colosseum.  

It overlooks Oban and is a pleasant walk up. It is far from the grandiose of Rome but it did employ quite a few stonemasons during the winter months.

It also provides a wonderful viewpoint of the town and surrounding waters.

When the sun poked out there were many wonderfully dappled views over mountains and water. A first glance suggests snow but not when it is 17°C. The herons were enjoying the shallow tidal water to see what might be trapped.

Following a little diversion up a long dead-end road we came across St Clements church. Built in 1520 for the MacLeod clan chiefs (Dunvegan and Harris) it fell into ruin after the Protestant reformation of 1560 and was not rebuilt for another two centuries. 

Inside is a simple, large and somehow quite emotive church. Alastair Macleod’s tomb (16C) is apparently one of the best preserved in Scotland.

Another defensive bastion are Broch towers. These were occupied by the main family and the village retreated to them in times of conflict. The external wall was some 2 metres thick with a spiral staircase supported on an inner wall of similar proportions. Timber floors spanned the inner walls with livestock on the bottom, kitchens and the like on the next floor and bedrooms at the top, finished off by a conical roof. This one is Dun Carloway on Lewis.

As we moved around the islands it seem there was something to explore every half hour or so. In Muileann there was a Norse Mill and Kiln. The mill stone was driven by a horizontal water wheel. Some refurbishment had occurred here!

But not at the Calanais standing stones which were started in 2900 BC (cultivation started 600 years previously) and went through a series of enlargements up to 1000 BC.  Clearly a very important seat of power over many centuries. At the centre is a burial chamber.  

Todays seat of power (well capital) is Stornoway which is on the Isle of Lewis and not Harris as some may have thought! Of course this is even more misleading when it is appreciated that Harris and Lewis are in fact one island and the castle is spelt Lews….. I give up.

The castle of course was located to give great views of the surroundings and early warning of intruders. Nowadays it is more about colourful surroundings and visitors than attackers.

Caledonian canal and Skye

At last we can head North and shorten the Canberra winter. It has been 5 years since we took out the ‘van and we decided to limit travel to UK and hopefully reduce Covid exposure. The Hebrides beckoned with a trip on the side to the see the Caledonian canal.

The first coffee stop was near the Falls of Dochart in Killin. This is proudly McNab territory. Fortunately the warring Clans have given way to a much more supportive town with the local hotel sheltering some 60 Ukrainians for several months. The children were really well organised and arranging the tables for dinner.

Our first encounter with the Caledonian canal was at Aberchalder on Loch Oich where a swing bridge operates. Functional but not particularly scenic!

In stark comparison is the suite of locks at Fort Augustus. This is a tourist trap and was really humming with boat trips and eateries. Loch Ness sits at the bottom (between the trees) and it is hardly surprising that the monster has not been seen recently presumably and very sensibly shying away from all the activitiy. 

Although most of the boats locking through are holiday vessels there are some quite large commercial barges still using the system.

At the North Eastern end of the canal is Inverness. A wonderfully picturesque city with its castle and Infirmary Bridge (one of four pedestrain suspension bridges built in the 1880s). The Calaedonian canal links four locks that transverse Scotland in a SW-NE line along the Great Glen Fault formed some 400 years ago with the linking canals engineered by Thomas Telford completed in 1822.

Close to our site at Morvich at the top of Loch Alsch is the pretty little village of Dornie.

However the real drawcard is Eilean (island) Donan (Saint Bishop Donan 560AD) castle. The initial small island settlement needed fortification from those marauding vikings and building was undertaken in the 13^th century.

Many of the buildings are refurbished at great expense given all the heritage rules. A new distillery Torabhaig (the ‘bh’ is pronounced as a ‘v’) was built within some very old heritage buildings. The building constraints meant the stills and other equipment had to be specifically designed to suit the structure. Expensive – as was the whisky! It also has some years of maturation to go with the oldest a mere 4 years. Watch this space!

One visit high on the list was weaving. We had sought a treadle weaver but settled for the surprising but much more efficient cycle weaver. The mechanical design was impressive with the shuttle shooting across the weave – much quicker than the hand pushed shuttles of yesteryear. It was suprisingly hard to get the right momentum – but gave new meaning to “on ya bike”. I should add I now have a very stylish twead cap.

On the Western most headland of Skye is a wonderful exhibition of refurbished (rebuilt) huts which really gave a feel for the crofter’s way of life. Each had a theme and was very detailed. The milking shed included milking cows and making cheese and crowdie (like a cottage cheese) and taking a small bit of blood from the cow to mix with oatmeal – a different version of black pudding!

Crofters did not crave today's comforts but did like to collect coronation menorabilia.

And here is one classic animal that has not changed over many years. Hairy cows are the unofficial symbol of the area with most pubs, houses and the like displaying something depicting these very photogenic beasts.

Having spent a few days driving we decided on a hike up the valley which started just outside the caravan park entrance. Gen Licht's beauty is easy to see but the quietness with the occasional bleating of a lamb or bird call was magic. A 14 kms up and back trip ensured we slept well that night. 

In addition to the Glens and mountains there are many picturesque views. One which features in many pictures is Portree. The wrecked ship in the corner of the harbour is not part of the normal scene.

There are quite a few lighthouses thanks to the many islands and resulting shipwrecks. Ornsay lighthouse is one of the most photographed for obvious reasons.

Close to the NW corner of Skye is Duntulm castle. Built in the 14^th century, it was the seat of the MacDonald clan. In need of a bit of TLC the remaining window was a huge attraction for those who do not know any other picture than a selfie. It took a bit of a waiting for the area to clear and get this shot!

As we drove down to Portree the Old man of Storr came into view. It would have been good to take in the 2 hour walk for a close up view but time was against us. Even from a distance it seems aptly named.

What was noticeable is the coast is surrounded by salmon farms. They are quite an enterprise with some 200 farms in Scotland, some with a dozen rings. Each pen has a capacity for some 1.2 million fish……