Shetlands

We continued our visiting of Northern Isles by taking the ‘van to Aberdeen and catching the ferry to the Shetlands. We had a small caravan park near Scalloway overlooking a loch, golf course and heather covered hills. There were quite a few campers on the site which made for some lively and fun discussions in the small kitchen/laundry facilities. A funny self depricating 73 year old camping/cyclist rather put our level of adventure into the category of tame!

As with the Faroes our timing was rather lucky. When visiting shops in the capital Lerwick we found a brochure advertising 'Fiddlers week'. The first night was free while they got together and met one another. One started a tune and others listened, watched, softley plucked the notes and then joined in.

It warranted a video.....

Fiddlers week

A major driver for Shetlands was to enjoy some of the many walks. We started on St Ninians Isle in perfect weather. Here a sand causway needs to be traversed to get onto the island. Simply stunning.

The island had many little offspring islands. All with their wonderfully complimentary blues and greens.

There was little evidence of accommodation as all the crofts had been dismantled and the stone re-purposed for fencing. We did find one exception – although clearly in need of some TLC.

It seemed that everyone was enjoying the weather with these three working on their tan.

Shetlands has a much softer landscape compared to Faroes and the cliffs are nothing like as precipitous nor as windy.

The final leg of the walk took us past the remnants of St Ninians chapel which is from the 12^thC. It actually sits over an older structure part of which can be seen through a small grate (inside the wall).

We rounded off the day with a trip to the Southern most point on the mainland where the Sumburgh Head lighthouse had a commanding view.

A quick exploration was followed by a sighting of one of this seasons few remaining Puffins. Most had headed out to sea, but this one seemed reluctant to leave its lovely garden.

Our second walk was Culswick on the West coast. This was a quite different landscape and included the deepest peat we have seen, although unlike our 2022 Hebridies visit we saw little evidence of peat harvesting.

The end goal was Culswick Broch which was accessed across a causeway. Both had seen better days with the latter requiring careful negotiation.

After several days we finally found time to go into the nearby town of Scalloway. The museum was fascinating not least the section that covered the ‘Shetland Bus’. This was a small and brave group of seamen who collected and delivered people and equipment across to Norway during world war II. On the town front there is a monument to the ‘bus’.

For our final walk we headed North to Eshaness lighthouse. The sea has pounded the shore into some amazing shapes. How long would you give this arch to survive?

Here is one that is long gone and now an island. The adjoing inlet was some 300 metres long.

This looked great in the sunshine but would be pretty bleak in a winter storm.

We did get caught in a short summer squall and had to don waterproofs. The first time on the Shetlands so certainly can’t complain. 

There are occasions when even the wind produces a magical feel...

Windy patterns

And with that our short week in Shetlands was over. On the return ferry we passed the boat club where we were entertained by the fiddlers. (The glass fronted building just to the right of centre.)

But we were not yet shot of them. It transpired many had sailed up for the week and on the return trip regaled us again both on deck 

And in the bar. 

Thankfully both overnight ferry trips were calm. I suspect that is not always the case as this was the first time we had seen lounge chairs chained to the floor. The islanders seem particularly trustworthy so theft would not appear to be the driver.

Two great but quite diefverent weeks and as a result difficult to pick a preference. I’m glad we did both.