Colombo

Out last trip to Colombo was quite a few decades ago. Suffice to say Michael was in cloth nappies (there were no disposable ones) and Lianne still had a few months to go before entering this world. The interim has seen a few changes! Previously the only way to travel was in a Morris 1000 as it was the only vehicle on the road. Notwithstanding some had mileages upwards of 500,000 they were all impeccably kept. This trip we did not see one Morris car and travelled in a 9 seater air conditioned ‘van.

Our first trip was to the Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara temple where (after shoes off) our guide went and got us some flowers so we we could dedicate them to Buddah.

Dianne ensured hers were in a prime location (amongst all the others!)

The main temple and stupa are a real contrast both in shape and colour. 

Inside we were greeted by a reclining Buddha protected from the hoards by a thin curtain.

Whilst further inside the walls and ceilings we covered in detailed stories of Buddha’s travels and adventures.

The Stupa was not accessible but also cut a sharp contrast with the blue sky.

This is a very popular temple as the racks for making an offering attest.

As we travelled through the city centre (which was vey busy despite being a ‘quiet Sunday’) we entered the markets in the middle of which was the ‘red mosque’. It is striking and apparently much larger than the narrow street frontage would suggest with a capacity of some 20,000. 

We then made our way to the lotus tower – a tourist attraction paid for by the Chinese. Its claim to fame (being 356 metres high) is that it is South East Asia’s tallest tower. (It seems to me if you narrow down the geography anything can be the tallest of somewhere….) The tower looks great at night as the ‘flower’ changes colour, however we were there for the view. 

We could see QM2 amongst the jumble of the port including the half constructed elevated by-pass highway. We also had a commanding view of the new ‘port city’.  Unfortunately, (as with the lotus tower) it appears Sri Lanka will default on the project loan payment due to the Chinese and end up handing both projects over to them. A cheap way of getting a major foothold into the country.

After all that activity the ‘Curry club’ was a welcome stop for lunch. This was previously the location of the Dutch hospital back in the 1730s (the precise date is unkown). The club had some great food, drink and air-conditioned comfort all of which were very appealing. It was a good job this was a private tour so we could take our time! 

The mobile chef was responsible for making ‘hoppers’ which from his flamboyancy was a role he clearly enjoyed. Hoppers were one of the few available no onion or garlic dishes that Alan could enjoy.

Our last temple (Vajiraramaya - more shoes off but smooth and welcome cool tiled floors) was largely built around a magnificent Banyan tree. Apart from branch supports the structure has over the years been adapted to accommodate some of the longest and largest branches I have ever seen.

It was also home to some very noisy parrots.

‘Out back of temple’ (Northern accent required) was a very bright silver monument suitably aligned to reflect the sun into our low-level observation point. With stepped buddhas in front it was not a combination I have previously encountered.  

As we returned to the port, we encountered the Independence Memorial Hall which was opened on the 4^th February 1948. Since then, Sri Lanka has certainly had its ups and downs. The 10-year civil war with the Tamils, huge indebtedness to the Chinese and recent bankruptcy bail out by the World Bank have all ensured the country has remained much poorer than should be the case. It is to be hoped that the low point has been passed and from here on life starts to really look up for a country that from our first visit has some fantastic geographical attributes and wonderful people.