Coast to Coast Mark 2

Last year I watched a BBC series by Rob Bell focussed on the Cornwall tramway. Apart from the interesting engineering aspects, walking the route would be relatively easy (railway grades) and be a second coast to coast walk. We started off with a diversion to take in a bit of the SW coast walk.

On the way this saying came to mind - "when you hear hoofbeats don’t look for zebras…"

However, you can look for the views – which were spectacular. If you look closely there are two tin mines in the middle distance. This industry was the driver for quite a bit of ingenuity (engineering).

The more inland mines had a problem. Getting tin and copper out and coal in. This was overcome by the construction of a tramway. It started at Portreath harbour on the NW coast.

A path up to the inland had to be excavated. It is now a beautiful cycle path.

The tramway was originally horse drawn carts which were put onto an “L” shaped rail to keep them on track. Nowadays the flange is on the wheel to keep it on the track. The use of rails overcame rutting and ongoing maintenance which in turn enabled loads to be increased.

Tying the rails down was done with the use of granite sets. This must have been a huge stonemason task. There is still some evidence of these sets.

Our site was another CL – this time with just three ‘vans on it. The farmer was suffering from a lack of water which was supplied from a bowser in the corner of the field. Not that caravanners use much water in any case. It did mean we had an excuse to reduce the number of showers!

Cornwall is well known for its many mines. It is hard to travel more than a few miles without encountering the stack of a past engine house designed to pump out water. Depths of over 600 metres and 1500 metres out to sea were possible as a result of these pump engines. 

Close up you can see how solid the basic support buildings were (well they needed to be given the size of the equipment).

While we were walking, we saw a sign advertising a steam festival. No further invite needed – and what a turnout. There were some 50 engines of varying shapes and sizes and all working. The resultant steam and ashes filled the nostrils, which together with wonderful whooshing noises made an experience for all the senses. Despite the atmosphere all engines on display were immaculately turned out.

Two engines stood out. This one was unusually long and the cable wheel below attracted my attention. It was used (in conjunction with a second engine) to pull a plough to and frow across a field. Apparently, some shows even have a demonstration of the technique. 

The second was a replica of “Puffing Devil” which was built in 1801. (The replica was built 200 years later but took longer to construct than the original!). The design by Richard Trevithick was revolutionary with a fire inside the cylinder and with high-pressure steam made for a much smaller and more powerful engine. It was built to prove it could move itself and successfully climbed up Camborne Hill. That invention powered the Industrial Revolution with road, rail, sea and factories all benefitting from the start of mechanised transport.

These fairs rely on numerous enthusiasts. Under cover were displays of many model engines including a fantastic array of Meccano models.

We decided to break the walk with a trip to Truro and were drawn to its wonderful cathedral. Our timing was perfect as the organist was busy practicising. The booming reverberations really make such places come alive.

As with many cathedrals it was built on top of an older church. As I looked down the aisle I noticed that is was not straight and there was a kink to the left from the transpet onwards towards the alter. After a few enquiries it was apparant that the Apse was centred on the original church but that there was not the lant to continue this aligment thfough to the entrance. Hence a kink which you can see in this shot.

Back for the second part of the walk the girls found themselves almost running as most was downhill. Jo was lagging a little as at this stage as she had a pretty sore toe. Helen was not going to wait – just need to toughen up!

Although the most common of raptors it was still good to get a reasonable shot of this buzzard. It’s mewing while soaring was a bit of a giveaway.

As mines were worked out, new products were developed. In particular waste heaps were reworked for copper arsenite. Point Mills was one such refinery. The product was used for green pigments in fabrics and wall paper as well as for fly paper and weedkillers. Just a shame about the unintentional poisonous effect (such as Dr Crippen). 

As we approached the end of the walk near Devoran we passed under the Redruth and Chasewater railway viaduct.

Our site for the second part of the walk was Carnon Downs. This huge site has toilet blocks with individual bathrooms. Very luxurious. We also had an enormous site to accommodate the ‘van with the overdue laundry taking priority over lowering the awning before we moved up country to Illminster in Somerset. Another coast to coast walk completed albeit this was only 17 miles long and on an easy grade. A tick in the box nonetheless.

Our stay in Ilminster was less about exploring and more focussed on social activities catching up with old friends and meeting new ones. Mike and Celia’s long term friends Sue and Keith invited us over for a wonderful BBQ and we partly reciprocated the next day with a long lunch.

We did manage to combine social and historic when Naigra visited. A trip to Montacute house included a wonderful story of how Bess of Hardwick managed to marry four times, progressively increasing her wealth and status. She ultimately was able to flaunt her success with a mansion and gardens that all could see as they travelled the highway down to the South West. She also made sure that her daughters  married appropriately so they could continue the trend.

Of course, no trip to Somerset would be complete without a visit to Lyme Regis to view a few of the many fossils. It was school holidays so quite a few rock knockers were on hand with hammers and protective glasses. None was really necessary as there are so many great fossils just lying around.

The view the other way will be familiar to many who were fans of the popular series “Broadchurch”.

And with that we packed up the ‘van and suitcases and headed to Canada. How does the time go so quickly?