Thursday, July 13, 2017

York and Vikings

Our 2017 Northern trip was book-ended by two weddings which will keep us away for a few months ensuring we escape the Canberra winter. The first is nephew Phil’s wedding and this meant the whole family travelling which gave rise to some interesting travel and accommodation logistics. Michael, Sonia, Kellan, Baeddan and Aimee arrived first and the numbers meant the caravan, awning and end tents were all required. When first erected it looked like a lot of space but quickly diminished once the family had moved in
Michael and the boys find anything to do with Vikings of interest. So our first week was based near York. Jorvik was one of the most important Viking findings in UK and now houses a great exhibition with a hanging chair ride around some moving village life models. Most of the exhibit was too dark to get quality pictures (flash was not allowed). However, the entry area had a glass floor over the excavations while films about the discovery were projected on the wall. A sensory feast.
The vikings were a much travelled lot and a map of their routes I found particularly interesting. Sailing was undertaken in sight of land and the Northern route via Iceland, Greenland to Canada was largely what we covered last year. I think the Southern routes need more exploration – they would certainly be a bit more clement.
York has a city wall around much of its perimeter which makes for a great way to view the city and includes various gates (and exhibitions on Henry VII and Richard III)
The City is built close to the confluence of the Ouse and Foss rivers.
Walmgate Bar is the only complete Barbican that survives in UK (and one of three in Europe). Outsiders were allowed in the first gate which was then closed followed by a decision on their fate. Quite a death trap….

Cliffords tower is prominent near the Southern wall and overviewed the old York Castle. It really is the last stand.
There are many museums within York and one we found interesting was Barley Hall which was used in the wonderful BBC film series Wolf Hall and housed an exhibition on Henry VIII. This included a show for children put to music about his wives (beheaded, divorced, died, beheaded, divorced, survived). Of course that does not account for many more relationships where marriage was not involved.
As an interlude to three days in York we went on a trip to Haworth village which was home to the Bronte sisters (Wuthering Heights etc). It is a wonderful village with numerous nooks and crannies.
It is also set in the Yorkshire Moors with walks starting from the village. We went on a 5 mile hike which Charlotte Bronte used to undertake.
 It included the Laithe reservoir.
And a rock aptly called Charlotte Bronte’s chair. This necessitated a brief rest stop.
 Aimee found her own chair.
 While Baeddan was not really in any mood for a rest….
The highpoint of the walk was Top Withens that was thought to have been the inspiration for Wuthering Heights.
 It was certainly worth a family shot.
The return walk used a different route and found these two walking down the lane which reminded Helen and I of a very old Clarke shoes advertisement…..
A perfect day with great views which we rounded out with a curry on the way home followed by some pretty sound sleep for all.
Near York is a railway line that runs from Pickering to the seaside resort of Whitby. Travel is on historic carriages pulled by a variety of steam engines. The manoeuvres, sounds and smells of steam engines is irresistible and despite some quite poor weather which deteriorated as we approached the coast we had a great outing. 
There is quite a regular service so plenty of engines to photograph.
The old hand operated signals add to the ambiance of a bygone but far from forgotten era.
There is also the pride taken by volunteers in maintaining the stations and their gardens.
As we approached Whitby we went under the 1885 Larpool viaduct as it eerily appeared out of the mist.
As for Whitby I suspect it was a pretty place if only you could see it! The weather was appalling with the ice cream shops vacant but the outdoor camping shop with its wet weather gear very busy.
Some however were not deterred – fishing continues regardless of the weather it seems
Captain Cooke first learnt his sailing skills as a fishermen setting out from Whitby and no doubt encountered similar weather on his voyages. Despite the height of his lookout at the top of the headland there was not much to be seen beyond the end of the harbour wall. Not a day when a land viewing viking would set out. 
As for us, we had some of the "best fish and chips in the world" (it said so on the door) and caught an earlier than planned train back to the drier interior.

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