Brittany

The site in Brittany was near the town of Combourg and we decided on our first trip being a leisurely day looking around St Malo. It is a spectacular city with numerous old forts erected on any piece of rock that was above the high tide. The old city has huge fortifications around it which took almost an hour to walk around. Great views. The original structures were started in the 9^thC (around the time of the Battle of Hastings). There were numerous crepe restaurants and we eventually succumbed – sometimes its great to be weak willed…

Helen then advised that the Bayeux tapestry was up the road (well 200 Kms) and that we could not be in Brittany without seeing it. The tapestry is not allowed to be photographed but here is an extract from the copy in the museum. It is a 53 panel almost 70 metre long affair and tells the story of how Harold went to Normandy as King Edward’s (the Confessor) envoy to declare that William would be the King of England when Edward died. Harold swore to this and returned to England. Edward died and Harold then proceeded to renege on his oath and declare himself King. William with a well trained force then travelled to England, built a fort (over a little more than a month) and then fought Harold near Hastings (no prizes for guessing 1066). William (the Conqueror) won and Harold died with an arrow through his eye.

William subsequently had to quell many rebellions helped by constructing (and then using) the Tower of London. He also helped with religion by starting Winchester cathedral. Here is Bayeux cathedral also built at the same time and was where Harold swore his oath.

One of the key attractions in this area is Mont St Michel. There is a long board walk (including bridge) to the Mont. Once past the masses in the lower quarter and its numerous eateries one arrives at the Abbey. It is spectacular and the architecture/engineering is brilliant especially when considering construction started in 708.

 

At the far side of the abbey are three huge halls on top of one another. The top level was the refectory built in the 13^thC and this had to be light weight. The roof was made of wooden trusses with a curved panel – much lighter than the more usual stone. Walking in the hall is unusually bright and this is due to 54 bay windows none of which are visible at the end of the hall. Quite brilliant as of course they are light weight.

The skill set of the stonemasons was also something to behold, the lower level columns extend directly into the roof arches without the use of capitols. Remarkable precise work.

Modern day engineering was also present. There is a dam (by Helen’s right shoulder) to enable water to be sluiced out at varying tide levels to maintain the channels, prevent growth and ensure the Mont island is retained (it had begun to silt up).

Even the mechanical engineers have a role with the free shuttle bus (we walked) having a drivers cab at each end. A bit of a reflection on French drivers!

After all that activity it was time for a meal at a Combourg restaurant overlooking the local dam. Great food and the slow service enabled time for reflection.

Last year we caught up with some friends from Dubai that we had not seen for some 30 years. Mike and Celia live on Guernsey so this was a great opportunity to catch up with them and knock off another bucket list item. Here is the welcoming committee on the roof of the ferry terminal.

The day was unusually clear with views of distant islands – we could even see a lighthouse in France. A walk around part of the coast was appropriate. We were told the views were great (which they were) but were not told of the need to earn our keep with some scrumping of Blackberries and Sloes (for Gin).

Mind you filling the bag did not take long and the girls were proud of the efforts.

Mike and Celia are boaters (you would have to be living here). A great motor launch for 4 was tempting but time and tide meant there was little opportunity for other than a quick visit.

We had insisted on a meal out and just down the road from their house is Le Grand Mare (which also hosts Mike’s golf course). A brisk saunter (the wind and waves were up) was followed by a wonderful meal and wines.

A great way of ending a very memorable trip.

The following day, en-route to the ferry, we had a brief stop at a Millennium project which is the Guernsey tapestry. This comprises individually mounted panels covering each of the last 12 centuries. A remarkable undertaking (again no photos allowed) with (once the research and designs had been completed) the tapestry stitching being managed by 12 Parishes.  It was at this stage that I was advised that the Bayeux did not use tapestry stitching but embroidery – The Bayeux Embroidery just does not seem to have the same ring to it!

Guernsey had also enabled us to avoid heavy rain and flooding in Combourg. A bit of cleaning and we returned home via Cherbourg and Poole to pack up the ‘van and head West.