Brittany

The site in Brittany was near the town of Combourg and we decided on our first trip being a leisurely day looking around St Malo. It is a spectacular city with numerous old forts erected on any piece of rock that was above the high tide. The old city has huge fortifications around it which took almost an hour to walk around. Great views. The original structures were started in the 9^thC (around the time of the Battle of Hastings). There were numerous crepe restaurants and we eventually succumbed – sometimes its great to be weak willed…

Helen then advised that the Bayeux tapestry was up the road (well 200 Kms) and that we could not be in Brittany without seeing it. The tapestry is not allowed to be photographed but here is an extract from the copy in the museum. It is a 53 panel almost 70 metre long affair and tells the story of how Harold went to Normandy as King Edward’s (the Confessor) envoy to declare that William would be the King of England when Edward died. Harold swore to this and returned to England. Edward died and Harold then proceeded to renege on his oath and declare himself King. William with a well trained force then travelled to England, built a fort (over a little more than a month) and then fought Harold near Hastings (no prizes for guessing 1066). William (the Conqueror) won and Harold died with an arrow through his eye.

William subsequently had to quell many rebellions helped by constructing (and then using) the Tower of London. He also helped with religion by starting Winchester cathedral. Here is Bayeux cathedral also built at the same time and was where Harold swore his oath.

One of the key attractions in this area is Mont St Michel. There is a long board walk (including bridge) to the Mont. Once past the masses in the lower quarter and its numerous eateries one arrives at the Abbey. It is spectacular and the architecture/engineering is brilliant especially when considering construction started in 708.

 

At the far side of the abbey are three huge halls on top of one another. The top level was the refectory built in the 13^thC and this had to be light weight. The roof was made of wooden trusses with a curved panel – much lighter than the more usual stone. Walking in the hall is unusually bright and this is due to 54 bay windows none of which are visible at the end of the hall. Quite brilliant as of course they are light weight.

The skill set of the stonemasons was also something to behold, the lower level columns extend directly into the roof arches without the use of capitols. Remarkable precise work.

Modern day engineering was also present. There is a dam (by Helen’s right shoulder) to enable water to be sluiced out at varying tide levels to maintain the channels, prevent growth and ensure the Mont island is retained (it had begun to silt up).

Even the mechanical engineers have a role with the free shuttle bus (we walked) having a drivers cab at each end. A bit of a reflection on French drivers!

After all that activity it was time for a meal at a Combourg restaurant overlooking the local dam. Great food and the slow service enabled time for reflection.

Last year we caught up with some friends from Dubai that we had not seen for some 30 years. Mike and Celia live on Guernsey so this was a great opportunity to catch up with them and knock off another bucket list item. Here is the welcoming committee on the roof of the ferry terminal.

The day was unusually clear with views of distant islands – we could even see a lighthouse in France. A walk around part of the coast was appropriate. We were told the views were great (which they were) but were not told of the need to earn our keep with some scrumping of Blackberries and Sloes (for Gin).

Mind you filling the bag did not take long and the girls were proud of the efforts.

Mike and Celia are boaters (you would have to be living here). A great motor launch for 4 was tempting but time and tide meant there was little opportunity for other than a quick visit.

We had insisted on a meal out and just down the road from their house is Le Grand Mare (which also hosts Mike’s golf course). A brisk saunter (the wind and waves were up) was followed by a wonderful meal and wines.

A great way of ending a very memorable trip.

The following day, en-route to the ferry, we had a brief stop at a Millennium project which is the Guernsey tapestry. This comprises individually mounted panels covering each of the last 12 centuries. A remarkable undertaking (again no photos allowed) with (once the research and designs had been completed) the tapestry stitching being managed by 12 Parishes.  It was at this stage that I was advised that the Bayeux did not use tapestry stitching but embroidery – The Bayeux Embroidery just does not seem to have the same ring to it!

Guernsey had also enabled us to avoid heavy rain and flooding in Combourg. A bit of cleaning and we returned home via Cherbourg and Poole to pack up the ‘van and head West.

The New Forest

No points for guessing the location of our next site. We stayed for an overnight stop at Black Knowl last year en route to Spain. This was such a great location we decided to make it the base for the next week.

Our first trip was to Glyndebourne to see the opera Rinaldo. No pictures allowed but the production was imaginative with the Roman scenes converted to modern day school rooms/cycle sheds and the final battle reconstituted as a football match. The singing and music were also pretty good nicely broken into three scenes to enable participation in drinks and a 3 course dinner.

A visit to Lyndhurst was required for a bit of shopping but more importantly to visit the grave of Alice in Wonderland (well Hargreaves actually). 

Our next trip to Lyme Regis via West Bay. Here we climbed Everest (well East cliff) and quickly sat down for some lunch and recovery.

Further along the cliff top was the beach where the BBC series Broadchurch was filmed. What was missing from the film was a rather interesting par 3 hole...

Our scientists focus was the Jurassic cliffs. These 200M year old cliffs incorporate many fossils particularly Ammonites. The town flaunts its good fortune.

 

The French Lieutenants Woman was filmed here as this re-enactment depicts (apparently!)

Back to the fossils (let’s have no suggestion that we hadn’t left them). The cliffs west of the town are largely silt stone and as erosion occurs (and during early 2014 there were substantial slips) many fossils are exposed. The importance of the area first became apparent when Mary Anning (1799 – 1847) who, without any special schooling, noticed the various fossils, their differences and hypothesised about evolution. A quite brilliant scientist which unfortunately others took advantage of by taking her collection and on selling it for a tidy income.

Here is an Ammonite crèche.

After two days of 2 hour driving each way it was time for a lazy day with a slow trip around various New Forest tracks and afternoon tea at Rhinefeld House.

Brilliantly sunny weather but a bit too cool for a dip.

Next was an overnight trip to the Isle of Wight. We crossed on the Lymington – Yarmouth ferry. The Needles could be seen in the distance and looked to be almost joined to the main land fort.

 

We walked up the half hour track to the view point where as well as the Needles there is a good view of the lighthouse. This 1859 structure stands just over 33 metres (24 above sea level) and was manned by 3 people working 2 months on and 1 month off. The Helipad arrived in 1987 and in 1994 the light was automated with only occasional cleaning visits now required. 

The area was heavily fortified (starting in 1867) to protect the Solent duiring several wars. Despite this investment over the years none of the guns was ever fired in anger.

What was fired from the batteries was the static testing of the Black Arrow rockets. After these very secret tests actual launches occurred from Woomera in outback Australia. The first satellite to be launched was Prospero which is still orbiting today and sending weak signals.

How long the Batteries remain (and in fact the Needles) is moot.

 

As we travelled along the island’s Southern coast the there were some spectacular views.

We overnighted at a B&B and after a hearty breakfast were up for a tour of Queen Victoria’s residence Osborne House (built between 1845 and 1851). It is an interesting house with great gardens and a view down to the Solent.

No pictures were allowed inside but pictures from within looking outside were OK…

 

There was also a large walled garden with a huge variety of vegetables. What was less impressive was the pigsty which failed to produce any manure.  

We returned to the ‘van and prepared for an early (5:30 start) to enable us to catch the Poole-Cherbourg ferry. The Old Harry Rocks signalled the end of our England tripping as we moved “Sur Le Continent”.



The Lake District

This year we have decided to keep the mileage down (Kilometreage just does not work) and not venture too far. We started with a week in the Lake District. Spectacular especially when the weather is good. Our site was in a converted quarry with great views.

The day after our arrival we headed off to nearby Ullswater. Picture perfect weather and country.

With many of the Lakes the key attraction is a boat trip. Once the tickets were bought we had some time to go into the village of Glenridding for a coffee. Almost as picturesque as the countryside. 

 
 
 

The boat (launch) was built in 1960 albeit to an earlier design. 

The surrounds were peaceful with the puttering of the launch and the general chit chat hum of the patrons. However, it all changed in a heart beat when the RAF decided to do one of its training runs.

 

Fortunately it was over almost before it had started and when we disembarked at Pooley Bridge. Tranquility was reinstated as we crossed into the river Eamont into the town.

The following day we opted for another trip with a bit of history. (OK there was also a discount for linking the boat and rail journeys that Aldi shopper Jo had found.) The narrow guage train left from Ravenglass on a half hour trip up the valley to Dalgarth. It is a narrow guage railway that was originally built for mining pink granite.

Ravenglass is the confluence of a few rivers and some of the locos are named after the rivers. Ours was the River Irt built in 1927 but the plate actually had 1894 as some of the orginal parts were from an earlier loco.

At Dalegrath there was a turntable. Not too much pushing involved. 

We set off for a nearby pub lunch which was opposite an old granery operated by a water wheel. There was a water fall alongside which would have been the reason for the granery’s remote location.

On the way back we had to wait while our return engine was turned around. This was named Hercules and was sleeker than its namesake Poirot.

This was a two part operation due to the size of the coal tender.

 She got up quite a head of steam racing down the valley.

For our third day we opted for some ambling at Ambleside on Lake Windermere. Along with more wonderful countryside. 

There were some quite quirky buildings. This is now a shop but presumably was originally built as some sort of river toll gate.

 

Better documented were the remains of a Roman river fort on the banks of the lake which was built in the 2^nd century AD.

It is amazing how from a few relic foundations they can conclude the fort looked like this. 

Sue and Martin had been in contact and were keen for us to spend a day with them on Braggabout. We have no problem with undertaking such a duty! We set off for Liverpool where we met them at the top locks near the middle of the Liverpool Link. After 4 locks (with BW operators so easy going!) we entered the start of the Liverpool docks.

 

There are times when even old heavy engineering works are beautiful (I know you are thinking typical civil engineer so let’s say picturesque).  

Through the bridge is the old Clocktower. These are 19^thC structures – solid but with a hint of elegance with the frivolous decoration on top. 

Notwithstanding all the engineering there was still plenty of wildlife. A heron took off from the bank (not unusual) but what was a surprise was the immediate attack by a seagull. It went on for quite a while until the heron managed to land in long grass. Below was something none of us expected. The clearest canal water we have ever seen. We could see eels wiggling away from the boat. They were a good foot long so with some jelly …..

 

No points for guessing the next view. The Liver building with its two birds on top was the first skyscraper in Europe built using reinforced concrete and clad in stone. Pretty awesome and must have been quite a sight for mariners returning home. The contrasting recently constructed pedestrian bridge works well.

After the last lock we entered the warehouse area which has  been refurbished. The easily imagined  chaotic nature of numerous boats and stevedores loading and unloading boats contrasts with todays peaceful scene. 

 

It also contrasts with some of the adjoining modern museum and office structures.

 

Through the basin (under the bridge) was a basin used for visiting narrowboats. A great central location for exploring Liverpool which Sue and Martin planned to do over the forthcoming week.

What the calmness belied was the impending change in weather that was to hit in the afternoon. The remnants of Hurricane Bertha arrived in the afternoon and these calm reflective waters were replaced by white caps topped with horizontal rain.

After some great cooking by Sue we set off back to the ‘van. The two hours travelling through storms meant we fell asleep at midnight quite easily. However, our slumbers were shortly awoken with a loud crack and on looking outside found that the awning was now on the roof of the van!

A wet hour followed with the help of a neighbour (I suspect with insomnia) while we slowly unpicked the equipment piece by piece from the top of the ‘van and got it back down to terra firma. Quite a start to our 41^st anniversary! The following day was spent drying out the equipment and assessing the damage, which fortunately was not too great. We certainly deserved the wonderful celebration dinner that night at the Troutbeck Inn.

Our plan this trip was to intersperse exploration days with lay days. Having had 4 busy days on the trot and given the inclement weather we headed South a day early and overnighted in Solihull enroute South.