When we last visited New
Zealand (for the rugby world cup in 2011) Helen became aware of an annual Art
Deco festival in Napier and advised we would be going there in 2013. Sue and
Martin also could not resist the opportunity of some fun centred on
Architecture. Napier suffered a large earthquake on the 3rd February 1931 which
resulted in some 256 deaths. Most buildings were destroyed but replaced over
the following years with Architecture of the time “Art Deco”. It is a beautiful
and interesting city as the view from the local Bluff hill attests.
There are still rumbles today
and Helen experienced her first earthquake when we were sitting in our Motel. (This
time the earth really did move for her!) Fortunately a mild one (Friday,
February 15 2013 at 4:10:58 pm). They are always nerve racking not knowing how
big and long they will go for. NZ has them all the time (see http://www.geonet.org.nz/quakes/felt). What we found fascinating is that the 1931 ‘quake
raised the flat land around Napier some 2 metres. The before and after map
below shows the extent. It certainly sped up the reclamation work that was
going on at the time!
South of Hastings we
travelled up to Te Mata Ridge. The views were great but this one shows numerous
little land slips due to all the seismic cativity.
Napier has many wonderful
examples of Art Deco. The Dome in the T&G bulding is a good start sited as it
is on the waterfront.
The nearby Masonic building
where the pavements were gilded with vintage cars. (There were more than 300 on
display over the weekend).
This is an Irish founded
building. If the name doesn’t indicate this to you the little shamrock
underneath should!
Even the manholes (sorry that
should be person holes) were suitably decorated.
The Tobacco factory had some
interesting history. The original business owner was a German but despite being
successful his heritage resulted in him being thrown out by the board during
the war years. He set up in Auckland and after the war the Napier business
flounderd and he bought out the old directors (gaining justice and hopefully
making a pretty penny).
The building was sold to
Rothmans but more recently has been bought by the Council and refurbished to
its former glory. Some of the details are brilliant thanks to great
craftsmanship.
Inside was just as
spectacular with lead windows and a ceiling dome as well as more detailed
timberwork.
We mixed architecture with
playing and Helen had an evening event organised for every night. We started at
a black and white ball at the Opera House in Napier. This was followed by a
show called the “War birds” with songs from the war. However, our favourite was
a meal and prohibition jazz night at the
“Church”. Certainly this church had a lot of followers who did not mind imbibing.
The food, drink and company
were excellent and as with the whole weekend most were suitable attired to
marry with the times.
The range of vintage vehicles was vast. We saw old Fords
through to some 30 Bentleys all parked alongside one another in their racing
green. Of course the most popular for someone was the retired Queens limousine
(although as it was built in 1969 it was not quite Art Deco). It was retired in
2005 and some locals purchased it to stave off USA interests. It can now be hired for wine
tours – something for next time.
By contrast this steam roller was available for rides (in
the attached cart) for a few dollars and had quite a number queuing for the
round town trip.
Of course there had to be a trip on a heritage train. Our
coach was built in 1906 and we had a wonderful time with a return trip to
Hastings. Here the girls are tripping along to our carriage.
Even the carriages were suitably decorated for the occasion.
The weather was great all weekend with nonstop sunshine and
mid to high 20s. The downside was the lack of rain meant there was a fire risk so
we could not be pulled by a steam loco however the diesel was from 1957 (built
by Clyde in Australia - for the train spotters more details are at http://www.steaminc.org.nz/). She was beautifully
turned out and looked great despite the adornment of wannabe driver and foot-plateman.
During our trip to Hasting we
raced a Vintage Ford. Looks like a shot from the Great Gatsby.
Our Motel was in Hastings and
its centre was also largely Art Deco. One unusual aspect was a water feature that
was split in the middle by the railway track. Martin and I got up earlier than
normal to snap this shot of the train leaving after the weekend on its way back
to Palmerston North.
Farewell for another year…
As a contrast to all the land based transport on several
days we were treated to a spectacular air show.
Don’t you just love it?
And to ensure the heritage theme continued in the air - a
Tiger Moth.
We also attended a dinner show
entitled Noel and Gurtie which was great fun.
Now here is a dapper crew - cocktails before the show at the opera house.
Although you could buy any amount of Art Deco clothes we did
succumb to more modern attire on our last day. We had a wonderful meal at the
restaurant at Craggy Range vineyard. Clams for entrée, duck for main and great
wines. This is what long lunches are all about.
Outside was so pristine and
well kempt.
Our last evening was spent at
the Gin Trap where we met up with James and Leanne. Although this hook up was
arranged, during the weekend we kept meeting them at the evening functions and
they even drove past us when we were at the Tobacco Factory. Other than the
last night (where I had stipulated 2013 dress code) they had been beautifully
turned out with different 1930’s attire on each occasion. I have deliberately
omitted the photos of them in costume so the shots of us do not appear so
shabby.
They were a wonderful and very entertaining couple. Hopefully we will meet up with then again when they are travelling or working as musicians on a cruise somewhere.
We spent six days based in Napier and still missed many
attractions –and the rest of NZ was bypassed – another plan is needed.
