We had a second morning at Bagen and our mooring continued to be a busy place. In the background there was a paddle steamer which Martin got up early and toured.
One aspect that differentiated Bagen from our other stops were the vendors. Helen just seemed to attract them and after two days we succumbed to three shirts for the pricely sum of $13.
The afternoon saw us at a small village called Ohn Ne Kyaung. This oxen was grinding peanut casings to get out the oil.
There was also a joiner making oxen cart wheels. Each wheel takes about a month. Here an axle is being readied for the spokes. A labour of love
resulting in a work of art.
Elsewhere in the village the children were enthralled to receive some newspapers that had been brought by the crew from Yangon. The girl on the left looked particularly studious for someone so young.
Picking peanuts off the mounds of vegetation that is brought in by the oxencarts is a large but at least a very sociable task.
Meanwhile the local market were using conventional scales.
Our next visit was to a wonderful village
called Yandabo. They make thousands of terracotta pottery using clay from the
riverbank. The turning of pots and beating patterns on them was similar to elsewhere
in the world. What was fascinating was firing them. Driftwood is
collected from the river and dried out in stockpiles everywhere. The pots
(which have been dried in the sun and turned regularly like a bottle of wine)
are placed on a layer of timber. Straw and timber is then added together
followed by another layer of pots.
This takes quite a bit of effort (at least 12 days) and
eventually the pots are fired for 3 or 4 days. The large furnace has to be
monitored regularly throughout the day and night to ensure the 600 odd degrees
is maintained.
This is done through holes at the base
(which also help to maintain air flow) and viewing the colour of the fire. I had a
look – it is definitely hot but as to the temperature..
The village was picturesque with
wonderfully shaded streets. Hard to imagine that only a month previous this was
all flooded. The pots are only made in the summer and all were being made to
order with no spare capacity so it was pretty busy.
Elsewhere in the village they were also
bringing in the peanut harvest by oxen cart. Picturesque in the afternoon light.
The village school had reportedly been
assisted by our tour guide and we were treated to the school singing a range of
songs. Some of the cruise teachers (including Helen) reciprocated with Incy
Wincy Spider. I think the children were short changed.
Our last evening aboard was a treat with
the crew putting on a show. A couple dressed up (one as a woman) and the resultant
dancing was hilarious.
All too soon we were at Mandalay and moored
up in the middle of a very busy riverbank. Getting the mooring lines ashore was
a challenge across the partly made bamboo rafts.
Once moored we immediately boarded a coach
and spent the day sight-seeing. Our first stop was a silk weaving factory.
Workers seemed happy enough but the light was quite a challenge for intricate
hand work. The pattern the two girls working on this loom were following is on
the pad of paper.
The brochure for the day included an
optional sunset cocktails and canapés next to the famous U Bein bridge. Fortunately
we visited the 200 year old 1.2 Kilometre teak bridge in the late morning and
it was apparent that all the activity would quickly detract from a romantic
evening with cocktails. Mind you duck l’orange was a big possibility.
Helen and I set off and walked across what
was a fairly rickety bridge. Some of the 984 teak posts probably needed attention
but on the whole it was a great testament to the resilience of this timber.
the lake was slowly recovering from the winter
floods and the rich soil was immediately being worked as soon as the water
level receded.
Temporary restaurants were also being
built. Bamboo and palm leaves make a ready and quickly built roof. (Let’s not
look too closely at OHS issues here.)
Even the fishing looked good.
Later in the morning (yes it was an early
start) we visited the Mahagandayon monastery where over 1000 monks reside. They
have a breakfast at about 5:00 and then hit the road to gather food. The second
(and last meal) of the day is at about 11:00 am and large pots are essential to
cook rice for such large numbers.
The dining room
was well organised.
The monks queue and slowly make their way
into the dining rooms. Some start eating in the main halls and then take the
rest of the food back to their more private quarters.
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