Sunday, December 2, 2012

The road to Mandalay part 3

We had a second morning at Bagen and our mooring continued to be a busy place. In the background there was a paddle steamer which Martin got up early and toured. 
One aspect that differentiated Bagen from our other stops were the vendors. Helen just seemed to attract them and after two days we succumbed to three shirts for the pricely sum of $13.
The afternoon saw us at a small village called Ohn Ne Kyaung. This oxen was grinding peanut casings to get out the oil.
There was also a joiner making oxen cart wheels. Each wheel takes about a month. Here an axle is being readied for the spokes. A labour of love
 resulting in a work of art.
Elsewhere in the village the children were enthralled to receive some newspapers that had been brought by the crew from Yangon. The girl on the left looked particularly studious for someone so young.
Picking peanuts off the mounds of vegetation that is brought in by the oxencarts is a large but at least a very sociable task. 
Meanwhile the local market were using conventional scales
Our next visit was to a wonderful village called Yandabo. They make thousands of terracotta pottery using clay from the riverbank. The turning of pots and beating patterns on them was similar to elsewhere in the world. What was fascinating was firing them. Driftwood is collected from the river and dried out in stockpiles everywhere. The pots (which have been dried in the sun and turned regularly like a bottle of wine) are placed on a layer of timber. Straw and timber is then added together followed by another layer of pots. 
This takes quite a bit of effort (at least 12 days) and eventually the pots are fired for 3 or 4 days. The large furnace has to be monitored regularly throughout the day and night to ensure the 600 odd degrees is maintained.
This is done through holes at the base (which also help to maintain air flow) and viewing the colour of the fire. I had a look – it is definitely hot but as to the temperature..
The village was picturesque with wonderfully shaded streets. Hard to imagine that only a month previous this was all flooded. The pots are only made in the summer and all were being made to order with no spare capacity so it was pretty busy.
Elsewhere in the village they were also bringing in the peanut harvest by oxen cart. Picturesque in the afternoon light.
The village school had reportedly been assisted by our tour guide and we were treated to the school singing a range of songs. Some of the cruise teachers (including Helen) reciprocated with Incy Wincy Spider. I think the children were short changed. 
Our last evening aboard was a treat with the crew putting on a show. A couple dressed up (one as a woman) and the resultant dancing was hilarious.
All too soon we were at Mandalay and moored up in the middle of a very busy riverbank. Getting the mooring lines ashore was a challenge across the partly made bamboo rafts.
Once moored we immediately boarded a coach and spent the day sight-seeing. Our first stop was a silk weaving factory. Workers seemed happy enough but the light was quite a challenge for intricate hand work. The pattern the two girls working on this loom were following is on the pad of paper.
The brochure for the day included an optional sunset cocktails and canapés next to the famous U Bein bridge. Fortunately we visited the 200 year old 1.2 Kilometre teak bridge in the late morning and it was apparent that all the activity would quickly detract from a romantic evening with cocktails. Mind you duck l’orange was a big possibility.
Helen and I set off and walked across what was a fairly rickety bridge. Some of the 984 teak posts probably needed attention but on the whole it was a great testament to the resilience of this timber.
the lake was slowly recovering from the winter floods and the rich soil was immediately being worked as soon as the water level receded.
Temporary restaurants were also being built. Bamboo and palm leaves make a ready and quickly built roof. (Let’s not look too closely at OHS issues here.)
 Even the fishing looked good.
Later in the morning (yes it was an early start) we visited the Mahagandayon monastery where over 1000 monks reside. They have a breakfast at about 5:00 and then hit the road to gather food. The second (and last meal) of the day is at about 11:00 am and large pots are essential to cook rice for such large numbers.
  The dining room was well organised.
The monks queue and slowly make their way into the dining rooms. Some start eating in the main halls and then take the rest of the food back to their more private quarters.

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