Sunday, July 29, 2012

The North Cape (near Honningsvaag) and Tromso

Overnight we travelled East over the top of Norway past “North Cape” and into the town of Honningsvaag. A cool 8° awaited us and we quickly hopped on a bus to travel the 28kms to the North Cape.
En route we saw a number of reindeer but as the weather was less than pleasant could not get a picture through the rain running across the bus window. We did stop part way at a souvenir “store” and saw a Tee-pee Norwegian style. Small branches were topped by reindeer skins and I am guessing the tent originally also used skins but canvas was now the go.
The local regalia was different and quite smart in stark contrast to the moulting reindeer.
Onwards and upwards we got to the North Cape which is a high cliff face overlooking the sea. On a clear sunny day (very rare but we did see postcards!) this would be magnificent but not on our visit. You could hardly see the sea below and stepping out into the wind and wet was for brief trips to take a picture and then we all quickly scurried inside to the North Cape centre.
The centre had a shop (many, including us did the right thing and bought, wrote and posted postcards from the Northern most point in Europe (71°10´ 21ˮ)) a few dioramas of people climbing the cliffs in bygone days, and a film showing what it is like when sunny.
Back at Honningsvaag the local statue also seemed to have had enough of the weather and appeared to want to hop aboard. To liven things up I, with a few others, donned a dry suit and took to the high seas in a couple of inflatables.
The purpose…. to see some King crabs
When the net was hauled up there were about 20 in the basket after a 24 hour soak.
The basket was some 50 metres deep and took some pulling up but when it did arrive on board we had about 20 crabs. These were about 5 years old and some 2-3 Kgs. Although they can grow to 30 years old with a 2 metre span and weighing in at 10 Kg by this time they are a bit tough to eat.
King crab were brought into Russian waters from the Baring sea many years ago and are now running rampant and regarded as a nuisance. However, I enjoyed the experience...
The edible meat is in the legs and claws with the tastiest towards the base of the legs. Nothing is eaten from the body. This one would also not get eaten as it has berries under the tail.
On the return trip we buzzed QM2 and went onto some fish drying racks. Given the weather I suspect they take a long time to dry out!

After the crab trip I returned to the ship as the wind was picking up. Unusually and before all were back (including Jo and Helen) QM2 started to move. The Captain subsequently advised that the wind had now reached gale force and QM2 had dragged her anchor so engines had to be started, the ship turned around and then moved out to sea. Meanwhile many (including the girls) were stuck on shore.
Eventually and slowly the tenders returned. QM2 had to be manoeuvred so the tenders could come alongside on the lee of the ship. Mind you even out of the wind the swell made for an exciting landing for guests. However, this was comparatively easy compared to hooking the boats up to the davits. The crew had to try and catch the pulleys as they swung about and banged onto the tender roof and then connect them to the tender hooks while the boats rode violently up and down in the 3 metre swell
As a result we left the town a little later than planned and as we returned past the Cape and travelled West the sea really got up to the extent we even noticed some movement of the ship! Glad we weren’t in a sail boat! Size and stabilizers count for a lot in such seas.
With no rest day at sea (that is a bit of a misnomer as there is so much to do when at sea) we were off again the following day into Tromso. Close to the centre is beautiful wooden church.
We followed this to a visit to the Polaria centre which had interesting displays about the Arctic and environmental issues. An additional drawcard were some seals up to their usual antics.
The outside of the building was even more spectacular design than the inside.
Whereas the adjoining  snow boat museum appeared to have miscalculated the height required for the roof.
Indeed there were some interesting architecture all round. The church on the other side of the water (between the masts) was stunning and we walked across the bridge for a visit.
After walking back we succumbed to a couple of beers on the at a waterfront bar before making our way back to the ship. Here the port anchor (the one that had dragged earlier) was being inspected and the paining touched up.
As we left the port three ski jumps adorned the hillside. Now that does look like a mad sport!
As we headed South we had our first sunset in 4 days (albeit a cloudy one and when we were asleep) as we left the land of the midnight sun.

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