Friday, September 3, 2010

Blarney and Great Passage Tombs

A compulsory trip when in SW Ireland is to kiss the Blarney Stone. Not that Blarney is something that Helen (or even apparently me) really needs help with. The stone is a lintel in Blarney castle and as it is below the (top) floor level there are some acrobatics involved actually planting a kiss. Fortunately there is help to pull you back up.
I suspect most would not have undertaken this feat had they been aware that if they slipped there was quite a drop to the ground. The Blarney stone supports the parapet where you can see daylight at the top of the castle. The assistant is there not only to pull you up but more importantly to ensure you do not slip through.
Once the castle has been climbed there are a couple of 1 hour walks that can be taken around the grounds. This fir tree caught our attention as some of its trunk had bent over, touched the ground, rooted and a new tree grew. (I am sure there is some more sophisticated name for this process...)
The third largest peninsula in this region is Beara and at its base is Garnish island. The quay for the ferry sits well in its picturesque surrounds.
It is only a 15 minute journey and could easily be shorter but for a small detour to the local seal rocks.
No back problems here.
The island was turned into an exotic garden by Harold Peto in 1910. The background views of Bantry Bay are framed by various structures (this is the “temple”). The gardens also boast a New Zealand fernery and Japanese garden with Bonsai trees. The contrast between the exotic garden and seascape and mountains works really well.


Inevitably we had to return to the East for our return ferry trip. We did manage a further days exploration. The first visit was to three ancient burial grounds. The area is so popular that we could not get on the official tour (several hours wait) but were given direction to the Dowth mound. This was built in around 5000 BC and comprises some 150 kerbstones in a circle supporting a mound and passages to burial sites. Unlike Newgrange (more below) this site has not been restored and there are no constraints. We had lunch on top with some great views.
The entry passages are significant structures.
Some of the kerbstones were decorated with a wheel type motif. One is clearly visible but if you blow the picture up you may be able to see several more.
The most well known of these mounds is Newgrange. This has been restored and formed part of our lunchtime view. When archeologists opened it up in 1960 they discovered that on the winter solstice (21 December) the rays of the sun lit up the passage and the burial chamber (the world’s oldest solar observatory!).
The chamber has been beautifully restored and the entry is magnificent. The large stone behind the handrail has more circles.
After all that history we needed a drink and headed back to Dublin for the Jamison factory.
Although a different product there were similarities to Guinness. Secret recipes, only the best barley (between Guinness and Jamison there can’t be much more barley left in Ireland).

The 3 distillations that Irish Whiskey undertakes uses copper kettles. (The wash, feint and spirit stills (the guide could not help us with why it was called feint). This is on our way out after the sampling as can be seen from Helen’s particularly buoyant expression.
And this is what caused the expression. 8 volunteers were sought and Helen was picked first (“pick me, pick me” helped here). There was then 3 glasses (clearly labeled) of Jamison, Johny Walker Black (Scottish) and Jim Beam (USA Bourbon). The differences were easy to pick including:
• Jamison barley is roasted using smokeless anthracite – the Haig was particularly smoky (they use peat)
• Jamison was smooth and had a more complex flavour – it matures in barrels that have previously been used for red wine or port. Bourbon use maize or corn and legislation requires that barrels are new.
All, other than one young American girl, agreed Jamison was the best. (No bias on her part just no taste!)
You could buy a range of maturities by spending up to €400. I opted for a bottle with my name on it (which can only be purchased at the distillery) to be drunk by those with taste when we are back in Australia.

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