Sunday, July 26, 2009

Stockholm

Stockholm really took us by surprise. The harbour is huge and (without knowing the statistics) appears to be of a similar size to Sydney. Reluctantly, I have to confess it is equally or possibly more attractive than Sydney. It has made excellent use of its vast frontage – you can spend hours wondering it without covering the same ground. It also has the benefit of some considerable history with the old part of the city going back to the 13th century.

We started out with a one hour boat tour.
The extent of buildings and museums to visit is huge. The Vasa museum is one of the newest (opened 1990) and houses a galleon that sank in 1628. It was meant to be the pride of the Navy. Given that it capsized in calm water after a voyage of just 1300 metres it does not speak too well of the rest of the fleet.
Many of the ferries are quite old but working well. Behind the Strom2 there is the Kastellholmen which was built in 1846 and where four cannons are fired when visiting navel vessels arrive.
The elegant af Chapman was built in 1888 and now serves as a youth hostel.
The waterfront is everywhere a hive of activity and bounded by interesting old buildings.
Similarly some of the trams have been around for quite a while – but who needs comfort when you can have ambience?
The theatre is beautiful with its white marble adorned with gilt (- ok gold paint).
Even the old army barracks have been converted into a museum.
The 13th century Gamla Stan (old town) is on Stadsholmen island and is central to the city. The place is packed with tourists, shops and eating establishments as well as historical buildings. Some of these continue to defy gravity. If you look carefully there are substantial 45 degree cracks across most of the façade of this building as it continues to settle.
Other parts of the old city are quiet.
At the top of the hill is the Royal palace.
We were fortunate to arrive just in time to see the changing of the guard. Once ensconced it was again interesting to see what the guards did. These guards were not interested in people loitering or sitting next on the walls as occurred in Denmark. However, if you stepped within the black line that surrounded the guard box then expect a royal ticking off. It seems guarding personnel space is the driver in Sweden.
Just down from the palace is the Nobel museum. It faces a square with some very attractive buildings. Here is an interesting contrast of the history of Nobel, probably best known for the annual peace prize, being housed in an area with a gruesome history including a bloodbath in 1520.
Stockholm is definitely on the re-visit list.

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