Narbonne to Bilbao

Whenever we are near Southern France we stopover in Narbonne to catch up with cousin Nancy and Sasha. Three days of eating and drinking may not be strictly needed given what has gone before but it is impossible to turn down. We did however do some tripping to burn off some of the excesses. Carcassonne was our first port of call. We walked up from the town and were rewarded with this magnificent view. It was certainly more convivial wondering around the castle in mid 20°C than the 30+°C of our last visit (see blog June 2009).

We also decided to call  into the Canal Du Midi which we plan to do in 2016 for sister Jo’s 60^th. We arrived at the locks near Beziere just in time to see some boats locking through one of which was crewed by a team of Aussies. They were having a great time and suitably decked out with flags, French shirts and berets. (The reason given for the garb was that it saves on washing apparently!) The locks are operated in twos and as a result there is a tidal wave and plenty of spray when the furthest lock is opened.

We also revisited the amazing Étang de Montady which is a drained lake (the radial drains are collected at the centre and use a tunnel to take the water away). This was constructed in the 1300s (although some suggest it dates back to the 400C and the Romans). What we did not realise last time (blog Aug 2011) was that our viewing hill (Oppidum d'Ensérune) was on top of the canal.

In the evening light it is a beautifully peaceful scene away from the hustle and bustle of the locks.

Our visit coincided with an annual trip that two of Nancy’s friends (Rowena and Liz) make. EOur second evening was spent at the restaurant that N&S should have shares in (being at least weekly contributers). We were introduced to some wonderful wine from the region and Nancy immediately got onto the website to see their opening hours which included Sunday until 12 noon.

Due to a somewhat lazy departure we found ourselves arriving shortly after 12 despite some quite formula 1 type driving. We need not have worried. The proprietor (Patrick and 5^th generation) of Chateau La Voulte Gasperets was a delightful person only too happy to open up and give us a tasting and tour of the cellar. He, I think, knew the wine would sell itself and he was correct as we walked away with over a dozen bottles including a free Rose which also turned out to be excellent.

We then had to start turning for home and travelled to Northern Spain (Zarutz) where the park was on high cliffs overlooking the ocean. The views were excellent – when it wasn’t raining! This was the first time that we suffered inclement weather that impacted our travels. Our trip to San Sebastian and Biarritz was rather wet and windy. However, the appeal of Tapas was too great (and is a great indoor activity).

During our wonderings we came across this unique push me pull you truck.

The waves and swell were really pounding into the town’s river and I was lucky to get this shot from the De Zurriola Zubia bridge and remain dry (others did not).

During our second day the weather brightened and we opted for a trip to Bilbao and the Guggenheim. It is just spectacular and I suspect one that would have impressed Gaudi.

It is the changing views where a 10 metre walk opens up a different perspective and coupled with varying light make this an almost living building.

Meanwhile the puppy dog remains diligently on guard.

With that we made our way to the Bilbao – Portsmouth ferry and home.

However, the girls could not resist “Sex on the Beach” as a precursor to our last supper and discussions on future trips.

We continue to enjoy Spain and France with their rich history, colourful towns and fabulous food. It is also easy to travel with the ‘van (particulary Spain) as most motorways have so little traffic. Enhancing this with wonderful friends made the three weeks go all too quickly.

Barcelona and Dali

We had not been to Barcelona (well I had as a teenager which was a little time ago and does not count). After our Madrid experience we decided to start off with a topless bus tour.  Earphones are supplied for the commentary and the Spaniards have started their own sculptures when they get off (no other nation would do this!!).

We got half way round the red route and decided to hop off at the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. This imposing building overlooks the city and rewards tackling the stairs with great views.

By walking further on and up a trip to the top to the Castell de Montjuic could be undertaken by chairlift or Funicular. We opted for the former and were rewarded by the first that I have travelled on with a 90° turn.

We were now well above the Art museum.

The view of the harbour underscored how massive the port is – this is barely one half…

Mind you the cost of construction is met by port fees which are rigorously enforced.

Looking inland towards the City the Sogroda Familia stood out which was our first appreciation of Gaudi’s work.

On return to the City we visited “La Pedrera” Espai Gaudi. This famous building was fascinating.

As the light changed so did the façade with its individually unique wrought iron balconies.

A visit was compulsory and included a trip to the roof to see the chimneys and water towers.

There were various ideas of what the chimneys looked like ranging from Bedouin woman to something out of Star Wars (a light coloured Darth Vader?). Being able to see through the vents gives the impression of eyes and being watched.

Not only are they individually remarkable they add to the effect of the atrium (are they guarding or peering in?)

One level down we were allowed to explore the attic. This from my perspective really underscored the genius of Gaudi and his ability for complex maths. None of the supporting arches was the same and all looked like they were on the limits of brick arches – however they have passed the test of time.

Across the road was another Gaudi building called Casa Batlló.

The façade was quite different but continued the use of curves and each balcony being individual.

In the evening when lit up it was even more impressive as well as extremely colourful.

The following day we opted for the blue bus route and parked near Sogroda Familia. This cathedral sized church was still being built, apparently from Gaudi’s plans. It is paid for by visitors which were queued the length of the building (and this was shoulder season). We did not go in but I can just imagine arranging a tour of an Australian building whilst construction was underway!  That said even from outside the building was incredible. The towers may look the same but they are all different.

Similarly the side of the church had four windows – but look closely and they all have different details.

This is the top of two of the (ultimately) 16 spires.

Jo had seen in a brochure a picture of the glass ceiling of the Palau de la Musica Catalana – so off we went for a walk across several blocks. What could be undertaken in half an hour took well over double that due to the girl’s automatic slow gear as we passed numerous shops. We managed to join the last English speaking tour of the day (albeit we had to ask the doorman if we were allowed to catch up after the sales girl had told us this was impossible and sold us tickets for the later Spanish tour). The interior was wonderful and very colourful. The building uses four main materials – glass, iron, ceramics and terracotta. The architect  Lluis Domenech i Montaner, designed an iron clad structure which only took 3 years to construct (remarkable for its time - 1908). 

The ceiling centrepiece was particularly detailed and became mesmerising when the large organ was  turned onto to play Bach's very moving Organ Toccata.

After all the walking it was good to get on the bus as we headed to the hills and went into the Park Güell. The first item to greet us was the famous gecko (OK dragon). Happy Snappers were in abundance and with their pre-occupation of being photographed in front of whatever they are visiting the poor gecko was constantly draped with bodies and impossible to photograph on its own. That was until Principal Helen stepped in and enabled this shot. (You cannot see all the ashen wannabee models fleeing off camera.) 

The seats surrounding the park arena were very popular, but I did wonder how many appreciated they were sitting over voids.

Barcelona has a rival to the gherkin – the torpedo. This is quite impressive at night when all lit up. We drove past on our way home on both evenings but despite driving at 5kph with other drivers hooting and swerving past us the passenger photographers in our car failed to get a shot good enough for this blog. 

The initial plan had been to use the caravan  site as a base to also visit Andorra but after the pace of the Barcelona days we opted for a quieter trip to Cadaqués, the home of Salvador Dali. We arrived at 16:00 with no previous appreciation of how beautiful the town is. The team voted that we should seek out a hotel and spend the night so we could have dinner with wine and enjoy the ambience. We agreed, as we had no change of clothes or toothbrushes (they were back in the ‘van) that  no one was to complain if the following morning travelling in the car was a bit rank. The town is stunning with its white washed buildings and numerous small boats.

We selected one of the many restaurants overlooking the water and once the chef (and owner) took our order he produced one of the best spaghettis (with fresh clam sauce) I have ever had. We felt obliged to follow the two bottles of wine up with further cocktails and in my case a Chivas.

The town lit up beautifully at night.

Unbeknown to us when selected, our hotel Port Lligat was 50 metres from Dali’s house and overlooked a nearby bay. This is similar to the view from our hotel window – another stunning natural harbour. The twin heads in the centre are on top of Dali’s roof.

It is a small fishing harbour so fresh fish is in abundance.

The alley down the side of Dali’s house was pleasantly cool while we waited our turn to go in. Small groups of a dozen or so are allowed in at 10 minute intervals with an escort who responds to questions rather than giving a guided tour. 

Dali’s house is labyrinth like. It comprises 7 fishermen cottages bought, joined and developed progressively. The first was this single room which now is home to a bear guarding walking sticks.

One statue had a rugby ball at its foot. Apparently all French clubs used Wallaby balls some years back. This one was signed by Biarritz players and given to Dali during a visit.

Throughout the house windows are directed towards the wonderful view. One room had a mirror in it to direct the sunrise into the bedroom. As this is the Eastern most point of Spain Dali liked to think he was the first in the country to see the rising sun.

There were some very imaginative ideas and some less so, but at least this concave mirror demonstrates that I was there!

On similar lines this room was a half sphere. By standing at the very centre you could whisper and your voice came back very loud. A really weird experience but one that demonstrates how much of our speech is normally dissipated.

The lap pool was not quite the “norm” with King and Queen style lounges at one end. There was also a film of Dali which underscored what a strange person he was in real life. It appears he worked hard at appearing “mad” so as to gain as much publicity as possible. It worked because he died wealthy with a number of properties which he donated to Spain.

Even if you did not want to visit Dali’s house the town warrants attention with many alleys of necessity being attractive to draw one away from the harbour.