California (yes the USA)

We arrived from Ottawa to a significant lift in temperatures (99F or nearly 40C). We picked up a hire car and drove to our time share unit at Windsor in Sonoma country. This took longer than the expected 1.5 hours as San Francisco people clearly take an early mark on Friday afternoon and the traffic was very slow even at 14:30. As it continued at 40C we had a catch up day (blog writing etc) and then on Sunday drove into SF. Mind you we did not expect the change in temperature down to 17C. We had seen an article on the Californian Science Museum and had this near the top of the list for a 1 -2 hour visit. So much for our planning – it was so interesting that we left when the doors closed.
There were many great exhibits that we both enjoyed but the planetarium at the end of the day is a must see for any visitor. The 6 digital cameras have you flying out through the roof, hovering around the centre and then traveling out around the globe, moon, solar system, milky way and then other galaxies. The effects were so good I thought I experienced G forces as we swept through the skies. Just brilliant.

A wine tour was also a must as we were in the Californian wine area of Sonoma and Napa Valley. We went to four “ranches” (vineyard is much more romantic). The one at Battaglini was a small “Estate” winery (ie all they do occurs on their land – no imported grapes). The winemaker (Giuseppe "Joe" Battaglini) had some friction samples on display (for roads) and it turned out he was a civil engineer in a previous life which added a new dimension to the conversation.

He also had some very old vines (over 100 years). Not large grape producers but great history and flavour. The density of the grape bunches was really surprising. This is some of his Petite Syrah (or Durif as we know it). Apparently Syrah (Shiraz) was grafted with the Peloursin grape by Dr Durif in Southern France in the late 1800s.

We also had an interesting tasting in the middle of a field of a small specialist white winemaker. (They make reds in the Italian vineyard on Lake Como.) We succumbed to joining this club and receive some of their very limited bottle production. We came to the conclusion that the area produced excellent whites but we were less enthusiastic about the reds.

We were given a couple of German crystal glasses that I can now report have arrived safely back in Australia. We also now have an excuse to visit Northern Italy again. The Sauvignon Blanc and ‘1470’ Chardonnay were excellent.

The following day we opted for another trip to SF and started with a tour of Alcatrez.

The audio tour was narrated by both guards and inmates. The inmate Darwin Coon (bottom right) was actually in the prison when we left having written a book which he was signing. (Looked a bit different from this ‘photo.)

No escapes were apparently successful although there is a question over 3 escapees who (using spoons) slowly removed the grates from their cells and then climbed up onto the roof via the services gallery. It is unknown how they left the island but as the strong currents/cold water and sharks in the bay would make a swim a challenge it may be that they all drowned. Apparently nothing has ever been heard of the three (other than in a Clint Eastwood movie!).

A few inmates were quite well known. On the left is Capone (jailed for tax evasion – couldn’t get him on anything else). Apparently a fit and threatening character who slowly lost his mind as a result of Syphilis. Not the type you want your daughters to bring home.

The guards and some of the families lived on the island (and commuted regularly to SF) and developed some lovely gardens.

These and the view of the city were particularly difficult for the inmates. A free society only a couple of kilometres away.

The prison was shut in 1963 and later was the subject of an unsuccessful land claim by the native Indians. Now it thrives on a million tourists a year and is a wild life sanctuary.

Choosing where to eat wais a challenge. On our first trip we ate at pier 39 where Helen had some great halibut. The seals in this area are a huge attraction. They are certainly get up to some bizarre antics when they are in such numbers.

We also drove down “the crookedest street in the world”.

And of course had to enjoy a cable street car ride.

Looking over the bay from the street car with Alcatrez dominating the middle distance.

At the end of the week we took in some of the forests, starting with the oldest petrified forest in the world at 3.5 million years. Robert Louis Stevens visited in the early 1900s and was rewarded with one of the trees being named after him. Amazing history of a volcano eruption (near St Helen’s) knocking huge redwoods over, then being buried by ash, the timber slowly rotting and being replaced (at the microscopic level) by silica, then finally the ground being worn away exposing the petrified trees.

After the petrified trees we went to see one of the last stands of natural redwoods on the Californian coast. Some of the statistics are staggering – over 100 metres tall (tallest living thing on earth) 6 metres diameter. Their size makes it difficult to capture on a picture but…..

On the way to the airport we stopped in at Sausalito for an ice cream and final view of the city. A wonderful warm day with a small jazz band playing outside the nearby bar underscored our need to come back to SF and was a great way to end the holiday.

That and a view of the Golden Gate bridge.

So how to summarise such a varied trip? Awesome? Brilliant? Really a summary is not possible – but we are looking forward to doing some more tripping in 2010.

Canada

We arrived at Ottawa in the afternoon (19th) and cousin Pamela and Robin picked us up from the airport and took us to their home in Perth. The location is wonderful adjoining one of the many lakes in the area. Apparently we brought summer with us and drinks on the landing was the place to be. Friends George, Julia and daughter Nikol also joined us and spent some time on the Seadoo. The tow tube was used the following day by Helen (a first) and Nikol. There are no photos of this as Gavin was driving the Seadoo – however the screams from the back when they became airborne could be heard by any who were near the lake. Helen also had sore muscles that took several days to subdue.Sons Neil and Raymond (together with Abe) had been working in the house and garden during the day. There also had been some frenetic activity during the previous few days to upgrade the bathroom to the guest bedroom for (in Raymond’s terms) the Royal visit. These were finished the previous day. All are justifiably looking smug at meeting the deadline imposed by Pam. Neil had also cooked a magnificent dinner.

As we were only a little tired we then moved into town to party at one of the local drinking establishments. Raymond is an excellent drummer. Unfortunately we had missed his session with a group but after some persuasion he did give us a solo (with occasional assistance from a couple of musicians). I could have listened for hours but as the pub was closing and Helen kept reminding us as it was now 3:30am her (UK) time and as we had been up at 5:00 to catch the ‘plane we went home to bed and passed out.

The following day was a bit of catch up and Duncan (Pam’s dad and now 94) came over for a couple of days. The dinner conversation was lively as he had just received (via an assistant who works in the retirement village) his first emailed letter. There was quite a debate about the merits (or otherwise) of the security of email versus normal post. I am not sure we convinced Duncan of the merits of email.

Young Nikol was also good fun and one of those natural linguists who was about to start French at school (to add to her English, Bulgarian and some Russian).

We had been lured to Canada on the promise of a few trips on a large boat (which was to have been acquired prior to our arrival). The purchase did not proceed so we had to suffer rides on a smaller boat. Space was at a premium…

We tripped through part of the Rideau Canal (1832) which is now a UNESCO heritage site. The reason for the waterway from Ottawa to Kingston (on Lake Ontario) was as an alternative route for Canadians to using the St Lawrence river. The St Lawrence is also the boundary with the USA and those warmongering Americans. Pam arranged for Duncan to join us at a couple of the locks who as an ex-Navy man was happy to give advice on locking maneuvers.

We overnighted at Opinicon Lodge near Chaffey’s lock. The accommodation built in early 19C was, to say the least, interesting and had not been updated for some while, if ever. We had a small two bedroom cabin (Spruce) with chairs outside so that we could participate in a pre-dinner drink essential given the restaurant was dry. The evening meal and breakfast were huge.

This was fortunate as we were also given a packed lunch. Unfortunately the bread on my sandwich was mouldy and together with numerous wasps resulted in lunch being abandoned.

We moved down to Jones Falls which is a historical site comprising 5 locks, a substantial stone wall dam, a blacksmith (who turned out to be a singer and known to Pam) and a young woman who was carding and spinning wool in the lockkeepers house. This turned out to be quite a long visit as the young woman volunteered an interest in pharmacy and I foolishly mentioned that Pam was a pharmacist. (Pam’s Perth Pharmasave is the oldest pharmacy in North America.) They embarked on a conversation about who new whom, schools, joint acquaintances, who had what illnesses, births, deaths, who was sleeping with whom etc etc. We managed to escape back to the boat after an hour or so.

It is rapidly becoming a tradition when we visit Pam to have a round of golf at Royal Ottawa (there are reciprocal rights with Royal Canberra). It is a beautiful course with tight greens and the course uses the natural layout of the land for its humps and bumps (ie it was constructed with minimal earthworks). The last occasions I played Ottawa I had good rounds however this time it was the course that won (although Robin and Neil went pretty well). As usual we caught up with the girls afterwards in the bar. The 18th green (behind us) is wide but short and a substantial pitch up and over a water course which all helps to add to the psychological challenge (that and knowing everyone is watching).
After the golf we went round to see Neil’s latest development project. It is a 16 bedroom building which houses single woman whose rental is met by the government. The accommodation is excellent and is nearly completed and has 100% occupancy. Coupled with a thriving DJ business Neil has some pretty high energy levels!

The reciprocity arrangements at Royal Ottawa meant that I picked up the bill and so Robin insisted on shouting dinner. This magnanimous gesture was supported by a carefully selected restaurant slightly out of town. Neil was unclear as to why the restaurant was so special but the reason became clear when Robin produced two discount coupons to ensure the meal was cheap – sorry represented good value. Mind you the food was good.

After the Rideau Canal Pam suggested that we take a couple of days and explore the thousand islands in the St Lawrence. One of the benefits of a small boat is that it can be moved on a trailer so we set off and put the boat in the water at Glen House resort near Gananoque. It was a beautiful evening and we were looking forward to a couple of hours exploring. Unfortunately once we had the boat in the water it would not start. Robin and I then spent a couple of hours cleaning terminals etc (all to no avail) while the girls took off to the bar. Apparently such troubles do not occur on larger boats.

The following day (after a damp start) we loaded the boat up and drove to Gananoque where we had a pleasant lunch and a brief stroll around the water front.

We then went to the theatre to see a locally written and produced play entitled the Molly Coddlers. The start of the second half was viewed from the rear of the theatre overlooking the water where a paddle steamer was boarded by pirates (no pictures of the boarding – copyright etc).

We returned to Perth, dropped off the boat and then went to George and Julia’s for a meal. George had cooked a great meal including pork steaks, peaches and cream corn on the cob (a must have from my perspective), peppers and beans.

Win (who has been wonderful in helping and looking after Duncan over many years) also joined us and we met her friend Ralph.

The pre-dinner activity which included some ten pin bowling using WII, a couple of bottles of wine, food and the stress of a small boat were all too much for Robin who did not quite see the evening out…

Helen and I had arranged to fly out from Montreal as we had not visited the city for over 20 years. We had planned to hire a car but Pam generously suggested that they would drive us up.
We arrived late afternoon (via Ottawa to deliver a wheelbarrow for Neil’s development) and started at the Jacques Cartier Place with Nelson at the top overlooking proceedings.

After a brief stroll through the town (which in parts has the desired French feel to it) we headed to the harbour.

After a brief stroll through the town (which in parts has the desired French feel to it) we headed to the harbour.

The girls took the alternative route through the gardens which adjoined the train line – difficult to see but a train engine is in the shot.

We also briefly called into the building below which looks like a museum but fortunately hosted toilets and less fortunately shops.

For our evening meal Robin was attracted to the “all you can eat mussels” and impressively went through 3 bowls. I have not heard how he pulled up. We then drove to the airport Travelodge (with the assistance of a local work crew who allowed us to follow them through a complex series of diversions). Pam and Robin then drove back to Perth. We had a wonderful time in Canada and look forward to returning once our hosts have forgotten how exhausting our stay was.