Stockholm & Helsinki

Cruising through 2013.

 

We have a packed programme this year with quite a focus on cruising. We started the day after our arrival at the Blue Lias for the 2 yearly ACS UK lunch (yes that is the Australian Canal Society). After a good lunch and some presentations (including one from Martin about our Burma trip) we spent a pleasant night aboard their new narrow boat "Braggabout". (More about life aboard when we cruise with them in a couple of weeks.)

The first cruise of the year was on Queen Victoria (QV) around the Baltic. This proved to be an appealing cruise with 11 travelling in our team. We were beaten out of the Solent by Queen Mary 2 who, by pulling out ahead seemed to snub us now that we were on QV. Last year we were on QM2 and graciously awaited the passage of both QV and QE and gave them both a good hoot before setting sail.

We settled into 3 days at sea while we sailed to Stockholm. Taking aboard a pilot was essential when we travelled through the waters adjoining Copenhagen.

The QV mob comprised Phil Edwards, Alan Scandrett, two people who we overpowered and took charge of their table, Helen, Jo, Kate Scandrett, cousin Pamela and husband Robin, Lynne Edwards and Jilly and Steve Edwards (and of course yours truly behind the camera). The Commodore Lounge proved a popular spot for an aperitif. 

After some gentle and repeated persuasion we eventually got two tables pushed together for dinner at the back of the Brittania restaurant. Great food and wine made this a great way to end each day.

Stockholm is approached through a myriad of islands which take 4 hours to manoeuvre from ocean to city berth. Dawn was haunting with the sun blinking through swirling mist and shadowy ferries drifting across our path.

At one point there is a narrow passage which has clearly protected Stockholm over many centuries with evidence of heavy fortifications. However, now the main threat is running into the ferry.

The manoeuvring around the islands with QV were on several occasions quite sharp and resulted in the ship heaved (well a slight tilt) to one side when taking the bends.

As we entered the harbour there were some wonderful houses albeit evidence of eccentric owners. What was noticeable were the number of flagpoles. These were in most gardens and particularly tall, generally being several floors above the adjoining house.

A little less eccentric but nonetheless impressive example of how some are handling the financial crisis.

As for the city it is just stunning with its waterfront boarded by the 17C old town.

Not that all is well with all of the older buildings. There was regular evidence of settlement and resultant "curvy" buildings.

We were here a few years ago and the soldiers continue to guard the Royal Palace. The difference this time was that some were woman. Helen disputed this saying the hair was just short and the soldier had a baby face. Despite going back for a second look Helen continued to look at the face and missed the unarguable evidence of a bulging front. I should add that the example below is male and not the guard we were discussing as taking a photograph after several peeks would have been a bit too obvious.

We missed the changing of the guard and despite chasing up the road cold only get the horses rear ends!





It is a beautiful city with some great street views,

and water views.



Thanks to some early commitment and booking we managed to get 4 adjoining cabins. With the balcony dividers down this became a natural party spot for pre-aperitifs.

After an overnight voyage we arrived at Helsinki. Some of us went on a trip to old Porvoo a half hour out of Helsinki. This is Finland’s second oldest city formed in the mid 13^thC. It developed as a centre for trade including furs and tar and has small warehouses on the rivers edge. At the top of the hill is the Cathedral. It is a quaint but simple building with some parts dating back to medieval times. The gate, tower and trees were very picturesque.

After a wonder round we took a small drive to a country mansion called Haikko. This beautiful mansion is surrounded by magnificent grounds so after a coffee and cinnamon bun in one of the restaurants a stroll was required.

The grounds included a 9 hole Frisbee golf course which was a first for me.



and all too exhausting for Robin!

The end of the trip included a drive past the Helsinki waterfront where a number of ice breakers were moored. They continue to be built in the adjoining shipyard however this is now jointly owned by Korean and Russian interests. The ships names are meant to reflect strength – Kontio means Bear while Urho is named after the president of the republic.

A compulsory stop in Helsinki was the magnificent Lutheran Cathedral. This dominates the Helsinki Senate square sitting atop many steps. Close up the details on the outside are beautifully kempt while inside was by contrast somewhat austere.

The adjoining buildings are also attractive and include the Helsinki University Library.

We have had our appetite whetted for Finland and will have to work out how to get the caravan there!

Napier and all that jazz



When we last visited New Zealand (for the rugby world cup in 2011) Helen became aware of an annual Art Deco festival in Napier and advised we would be going there in 2013. Sue and Martin also could not resist the opportunity of some fun centred on Architecture. Napier suffered a large earthquake on the 3rd February 1931 which resulted in some 256 deaths. Most buildings were destroyed but replaced over the following years with Architecture of the time “Art Deco”. It is a beautiful and interesting city as the view from the local Bluff hill attests.

There are still rumbles today and Helen experienced her first earthquake when we were sitting in our Motel. (This time the earth really did move for her!) Fortunately a mild one (Friday, February 15 2013 at 4:10:58 pm). They are always nerve racking not knowing how big and long they will go for. NZ has them all the time (see http://www.geonet.org.nz/quakes/felt). What we found fascinating is that the 1931 ‘quake raised the flat land around Napier some 2 metres. The before and after map below shows the extent. It certainly sped up the reclamation work that was going on at the time!

 

South of Hastings we travelled up to Te Mata Ridge. The views were great but this one shows numerous little land slips due to all the seismic cativity.

Napier has many wonderful examples of Art Deco. The Dome in the T&G bulding is a good start sited as it is on the waterfront.

The nearby Masonic building where the pavements were gilded with vintage cars. (There were more than 300 on display over the weekend).

This is an Irish founded building. If the name doesn’t indicate this to you the little shamrock underneath should! 

Even the manholes (sorry that should be person holes) were suitably decorated.

The Tobacco factory had some interesting history. The original business owner was a German but despite being successful his heritage resulted in him being thrown out by the board during the war years. He set up in Auckland and after the war the Napier business flounderd and he bought out the old directors (gaining justice and hopefully making  a pretty penny).

The building was sold to Rothmans but more recently has been bought by the Council and refurbished to its former glory. Some of the details are brilliant thanks to great craftsmanship.

Inside was just as spectacular with lead windows and a ceiling dome as well as more detailed timberwork.

We mixed architecture with playing and Helen had an evening event organised for every night. We started at a black and white ball at the Opera House in Napier. This was followed by a show called the “War birds” with songs from the war. However, our favourite was a meal and  prohibition jazz night at the “Church”. Certainly this church had a lot of followers who did not mind imbibing.

The food, drink and company were excellent and as with the whole weekend most were suitable attired to marry with the times.

The range of vintage vehicles was vast. We saw old Fords through to some 30 Bentleys all parked alongside one another in their racing green. Of course the most popular for someone was the retired Queens limousine (although as it was built in 1969 it was not quite Art Deco). It was retired in 2005 and some locals purchased it to stave off  USA interests. It can now be hired for wine tours – something for next time.

By contrast this steam roller was available for rides (in the attached cart) for a few dollars and had quite a number queuing for the round town trip.

Of course there had to be a trip on a heritage train. Our coach was built in 1906 and we had a wonderful time with a return trip to Hastings. Here the girls are tripping along to our carriage.

Even the carriages were suitably decorated for the occasion.

The weather was great all weekend with nonstop sunshine and mid to high 20s. The downside was the lack of rain meant there was a fire risk so we could not be pulled by a steam loco however the diesel was from 1957 (built by Clyde in Australia - for the train spotters more details are at http://www.steaminc.org.nz/). She was beautifully turned out and looked great despite the adornment of wannabe driver and  foot-plateman.

During our trip to Hasting we raced a Vintage Ford. Looks like a shot from the Great Gatsby.

Our Motel was in Hastings and its centre was also largely Art Deco. One unusual aspect was a water feature that was split in the middle by the railway track. Martin and I got up earlier than normal to snap this shot of the train leaving after the weekend on its way back to Palmerston North.

Farewell for another year…

As a contrast to all the land based transport on several days we were treated to a spectacular air show.

Don’t you just love it?

And to ensure the heritage theme continued in the air - a Tiger Moth.

We also attended a dinner show entitled Noel and Gurtie which was great fun.

Now here is a dapper crew - cocktails before the show at the opera house.

Although you could buy any amount of Art Deco clothes we did succumb to more modern attire on our last day. We had a wonderful meal at the restaurant at Craggy Range vineyard. Clams for entrée, duck for main and great wines. This is what long lunches are all about.

Outside was so pristine and well kempt.

Our last evening was spent at the Gin Trap where we met up with James and Leanne. Although this hook up was arranged, during the weekend we kept meeting them at the evening functions and they even drove past us when we were at the Tobacco Factory. Other than the last night (where I had stipulated 2013 dress code) they had been beautifully turned out with different 1930’s attire on each occasion. I have deliberately omitted the photos of them in costume so the shots of us do not appear so shabby.

They were a wonderful and very entertaining couple. Hopefully we will meet up with then again when they are travelling or working as musicians on a cruise somewhere.  

We spent six days based in Napier and still missed many attractions –and the rest of NZ was bypassed – another plan is needed.