Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island

Once landed in Halifax we had time to burn as we couldn’t pick up our “Canadream" RV (recreational vehicle) until late in the afternoon. It was good to get aboard and overnight at a lovely National park (Laurie) and after an early night were ready to get on our way. First stop – the famous Peggy Cove where a seafood chowder for lunch was an obvious choice.

Outside there was a fiddler playing a range of songs to ensure we also dallied in the nearby shop.

It is a typical fishing village where lobsters (and pots) abound.

The main drawcard was the lighthouse, which was teeming with visitors, so this distant view is hopefully more calming. In the centre (zoom in) was a series of large chairs to better contemplate the view. They are a great idea which we saw repeated throughout our trip. Also note the neat gardens. Many have significantly more grass than these, but all were well kempt. Shares in ride on mowers may be worth considering. 

Glacial movement has ensured the rocks are smooth with some scoring due to large boulders scraping along the underside of the glacier. This unexpected entertainer presumably has roots in Switzerland.

On our way out was a sculpture in this natural rock face. It is a Fisherman’s Monument (William E DeGarthe 1984) dedicated to all those hardy souls who set to sea for lobster and the like.

We then had a delightful slow trip down the coast. Spectacular views were everywhere. It was just hard to stop a large RV to take snaps. We did stop at Lunenberg as Helen had a hankering for some Hodge Podge (a German dish of fresh vegetables cooked together with cream and butter) but unfortunately the restaurant of the same name had closed. We had to settle for some grilled salmon – which was delicious – all while watching Bluenose II set sail. The original Bluenose was built here in 1921. Apart from being a fishing vessel she won an International Fisherman’s Trophy 40-mile race and then successfully defended her title for 17 years earning the nickname "Queen of the North Atlantic.

The park sites are something to behold. Each has a trestle table and fire pit. Hidden amongst the trees you are only vaguely aware of neighbours, at least until they all light up their campfires which was a ritual on almost every site.

Some of the woodlands are downright scary. The feet of this giant bird had been standing still for a while judging by the moss that had gathered.

However, the paths were generally very attractive and inviting.

Until you come across invaders from outer space.

The end of this walk was a wonderful floating pedestrian timber bridge leading to a canoe rental station.

Some of the fishing sheds need a bit of TLC but are worth maintaining when you consider the work involved in the original construction. Imagine nailing all those wall shingles.

Harbours here are for fishing vessels with recreational boats a rarity. The scallop ships are unusually wide to enable large draggers to be used. I suspect you would need particularly good sea legs to work on them!

Of course, lobster abound. In one restaurant they showcased these massive claws. The estimate (based on weight gained between moults) is that this one was over 160 years old as it weighed in at a massive 40 lbs (18kg). It was caught via fishing nets as it was too large for any pot.

We then headed over to the West coast to Digby a colourful fishing town. Renowned Acadian artist Maud Lewis lived nearby. Although born with birth defects which resulted in the early onset of rheumatoid arthritis, her paintings were joyful colour and included the inside and outside of her house. There is a replica of her tiny house which included stairs presumably to a small attic crawl space.

Acadians (originally French Loire valley immigrants) were hard working and skilled agriculturist who used dykes and Aboideaux’s (one-way wooden sluice gates) to drain flood areas and then use the rich soil for growing crops. They were dispelled by the British as they would not sign allegiance to Britain.

Their plight was given publicity through an epic poem (about 90 pages) by the American poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, published in 1847. "A Tale of Arcadia" follows an Acadian girl named Evangeline and her search for her lost love Gabriel during their expulsion. There is a statue of her in Grand Pre. 

The site overlooks some of the dykes system which are still in use today.

We then tripped over to Prince Edward Island (PEI). That entailed crossing the Confederation Bridge which at 12.9 kms is the longest bridge over ice waters. It opened in 1997. The curve of the bridge and pier bases are specially shaped to reduce the impact of frozen winters. I am glad we traversed on a relatively calm day.

We also wanted to understand a little about Lucy Maud Montgomery the author of "Anne of Green Gables" who spent much of her life in Cavendish. Apart from family challenges Montgomery faced a very unscrupulous publisher (Louis Page) whom she eventually had to take to court over copyright issues. After 15 years, justice finally prevailed not only with a financial award but also saw the demise of the publisher as no author wanted to deal with a such a dishonest and vindictive person.

The book was inspired by an attractive local farmhouse.  

Which had a particularly interesting stove. The bulge part way up the chimney was for smoking meat and fish.

We continued to be lucky with the weather which gave rise to wonderful and calm sunsets.

The second way to PEI is via a ferry. We just missed one as it zig-zagged its way out of Wood Islands harbour.

We thought our ‘van (at the front) was quite large until we compared it with others. At least we had a solar panel!

Our jump off point for Cape Breton was Whycocomagh. We decided that it was time to get some exercise and there was a steep track at the back of the site up the Salt Mountain trail.

It certainly got the heart rate up. Hard work but a great view so worth the effort.